Tag Archives: Stirling

Mar 25 2012
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Scotland

The Second Visit to Stirling Castle

During my first visit to Stirling Castle (18 months ago) I was disappointed to find a large section closed off for renovations. The Royal Apartments were being done up to look like they would have during the time of Mary of Guise, widow of James V and mother of Mary Queen of Scots. Stirling was the seat of power for several Stuart Kings, and since her husband James V died before they would have been completed, Mary of Guise ruled from these apartments as regent.

Stirling was one the most strategically important castles of the time, and has great natural defenses. The entire old town sits atop an extinct volcano overlooking the River Forth and the primary route from the Highlands to the lowlands passed through the town.

The castle changed hands several times during the war of independence and Robert the Bruce’s eventual victory at the Battle of Bannockburn took place nearby. However, most of the current buildings are from the 15th and 16th centuries as Stirling increased in its importance as a royal residence. James V wanted his palace to be grand, and impress any other European ruler coming through its gates, particularly his new bride Mary of Guise.

In a lot of ways, there is far more to see at Stirling’s castle than there is at Edinburgh Castle. There is the Great Hall, the Royal Apartments, the kitchens, the regimental museum, the tapestry studio, and Argyll’s Lodging just a short walk away. Plus, in the hour and change before Aarti’s train got there I got to walk around a bit, and I made it over to the heading hill where the beheading stone sits.

I really liked the short walk around Argyll’s lodging. The tour guide seemed really knowledgeable and enthusiastic about the evolution of the house and how each of the owners put their touches on it.

We even bought a bottle of nice local Drumgray whisky liqueur from the castle shop, which Aarti and I opened tonight. Even though there are some similarities, it tastes very different than bailey’s. Drumgray uses a single malt whisky and a scottish double cream.

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Aug 03 2010
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Scotland

Historic Scotland – Stirling

On Sunday, I took the train up to Stirling. The castle up there is pretty amazing, but getting there was a lot of work. The entire old town is on a steep hill. The roads up are winding and narrow and steep. I read that the old horse drawn carriages often got stuck on the narrow cobble stone streets.

After leaving the train station, I made my way over to the outer city walls. Just above the tourist information centre, just outside the city walls, there is a statue of Rob Roy McGregor – the Scottish folk hero. The guy didn’t look anything like Liam Neeson.

There were a few big tourist / student groups that I saw on my way up the hill. A big group was in the old kirk, which I found out was an important place in the Scottish Reformation. In the cemetery outside, there were headstones dating back to the 1500’s, all facing east. From there it was a short walk up to the castle; they’re both right at the top of the hill.

While I was there, I signed up for a membership in Historic Scotland. For about 40 pounds, I get unlimited admissions to sites all across Scotland including Edinburgh castle. I should get plenty of use out of that membership.

Stirling is also close to the sites of the two most important battles for Scottish independence. Stirling Bridge was William Wallace’s most decisive victory over the English. They don’t show a bridge in the movie Braveheart, but Wallace allowed half an English army to cross the bridge before isolating and devastating the English troops. Bannockburn was the most important victory of Robert the Bruce and was the decisive battle ensuring scottish independence. Bannockburn also required Robert the Bruce to adapt the terrain to his advantage.

I didn’t make it to the university, the Wallace Monument, or Bannockburn because they were all outside the city centre, which was about an hour by train from Edinburgh. The palace inside the castle was being renovated but there was still a lot to see around the grounds: the great hall, kitchens, the medieval weaving centre, the regimental museum, the gun batteries. A few of those living history actors were also around. Its a popular tourist site.

It was a long walk to the bridge after my steep climb, and the weather turned on me early in the afternoon, so I was burned out at about 3:30.

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