Aug 17 2010
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Thoughts and Musings

Amsterdam – canals and lots of walking

Friday, August 13

  • Arrived in Amsterdam just before 9 pm
  • Train to Centraal Station
  • Walked around, got lost somewhere in Noordermarkt
  • Dam Square and the National Monument
  • Checked into my hostel in Red Light District

With my hostel being right there, I did manage to explore the famous red light district quite a lot, but none of the other nights really compared to the Friday – the atmosphere was electric until probablly 4 am. I didn’t get much sleep that night, but not for the reasons dirty minds would expect; my hostel room had big windows that were open to the street, and no one was in any hurry to close those because of how hot it was. There were also revelers coming into the 12 bed dorm until like 4 am;  early risers were getting up and about by around 6 am. You really couldn’t help but take in the excitement.


Saturday, August 14

  • Checked out some of the shops on Nieuwendijk
  • Had coffee and breakfast on Damrak
  • Took the Tram out to Artis Zoo to see the monkeys and chill out for a few hours
  • Canal Tour
  • A pint of Murphey’s Red and shephards pie in the pub below my hostel (one of a few Irish pubs in the Red Light District)
  • More wanderings, this time south to Rembrandt Square
  • The Torture Museum (you’d think it would be really interesting but it wasn’t)

I did a lot of walking on this trip.  The zoo was actually pretty fun; its an old victorian design so there are some parts that are quite pretty even if it doesn’t smell great. Plus, a lot of people in Amsterdam go there for family outings, and there was a  pretty good vibe throughout the place – nothing really seedy going on. Its the polar opposite of the Red Light District.

Sunday, August 15

  • Vondelpark – lots of bikers and walkers and a free piano concert as a bonus
  • Delicious Pannekoeken with peaches and powdered sugar
  • Bill arrived and we watched a little football before heading out in search of other adventures
  • More wandering around the Red Light District and the Chinatown

After a bite to eat we stopped at a little bar where we had a great bartender who gave us some very tasty shots, including a mini guiness and another flaming shot that i don’t remember the name of.  Also, I stopped briefly at one of the coffee houses; good brownies, but the night was not as wild and crazy as that scene in the movie EuroTrip. He wanted to be sharp when he met his new boss.

It was good to catch up with Bill and with any luck we’ll meet up again soon in Africa.

Monday, August 16

Bill had an early flight and I was on my own again on Monday. Before he left, he dropped off an important gift. It made me feel like I was back in Canada: I spent 45 minutes of my Monday morning reading the Globe and Mail at what felt like a kitchen table. This day though I was carrying my backpack through my wanderings because I checked out of my hostel at 10 am and didn’t want to pay for a locker at the train station – I had to stop and rest more.

  • Westerstraat (probably the longest outdoor market I’ve seen in my travels so far)
  • Anne Frank House (I was there but the line outside was over an hour long so I moved on)
  • Westerpark (I like green spaces, and this one is different than any other I’ve seen – would definitely recommend for anyone looking to relax outside the city centre) for an espresso and reading break
  • A few areas near Westerdok (practically no cars, only a couple narrow bridges for access)
  • Haarlemerstraat
  • There was this little outdoor cafe near Spuistraat that was serving organic food – I had a burger and fries (with mayonaise on my fries)
  • I found a liquor store selling absinthe and other liquors in really trippy containers – I guess vodka tastes better when it comes out of a bottle shaped like a naked woman, I probably should have got one as a souvenir to be certain
  • Amsterdam Oud-West
  • Museumplein – plenty of restoration happening,  but I wasn’t going to spend 17 euros for it especially since I was pretty tired by this point

I know its not just Amsterdam, but it would be really helpful if there were a few more public washrooms and public benches. Its annoying that you have you to pay 50 cents to use the washroom at KFC of all places. In this sense, I say screw the free market, supply and demand bull. As a tourist, sometimes I just want to sit somewhere and rest myself or use the facilities without having to buy anything. Its a minor annoyance I know, but there is a principle behind it. That’s why some of the best times are had outside the tourist  areas; not only are you mingling with actual residents, but there are actual public services – less gouging.

A couple of other cool things I found about the city: most buildings have a lean to them (everything is near sea level and built on wooden piles) and because of the narrow staircases, all buildings have a wench (to lift furniture through the windows when people move)

I’m sure there is plenty more to Amsterdam that I didn’t see – maybe next time I’ll see if I can get into a bit more trouble. Now though, I’m back in Scotland.

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Aug 13 2010
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Amsterdam

I’m flying out tonight for a three day stop in Amsterdam. It should be some good times.

Aug 03 2010
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Scotland

Historic Scotland – Stirling

On Sunday, I took the train up to Stirling. The castle up there is pretty amazing, but getting there was a lot of work. The entire old town is on a steep hill. The roads up are winding and narrow and steep. I read that the old horse drawn carriages often got stuck on the narrow cobble stone streets.

After leaving the train station, I made my way over to the outer city walls. Just above the tourist information centre, just outside the city walls, there is a statue of Rob Roy McGregor – the Scottish folk hero. The guy didn’t look anything like Liam Neeson.

There were a few big tourist / student groups that I saw on my way up the hill. A big group was in the old kirk, which I found out was an important place in the Scottish Reformation. In the cemetery outside, there were headstones dating back to the 1500’s, all facing east. From there it was a short walk up to the castle; they’re both right at the top of the hill.

While I was there, I signed up for a membership in Historic Scotland. For about 40 pounds, I get unlimited admissions to sites all across Scotland including Edinburgh castle. I should get plenty of use out of that membership.

Stirling is also close to the sites of the two most important battles for Scottish independence. Stirling Bridge was William Wallace’s most decisive victory over the English. They don’t show a bridge in the movie Braveheart, but Wallace allowed half an English army to cross the bridge before isolating and devastating the English troops. Bannockburn was the most important victory of Robert the Bruce and was the decisive battle ensuring scottish independence. Bannockburn also required Robert the Bruce to adapt the terrain to his advantage.

I didn’t make it to the university, the Wallace Monument, or Bannockburn because they were all outside the city centre, which was about an hour by train from Edinburgh. The palace inside the castle was being renovated but there was still a lot to see around the grounds: the great hall, kitchens, the medieval weaving centre, the regimental museum, the gun batteries. A few of those living history actors were also around. Its a popular tourist site.

It was a long walk to the bridge after my steep climb, and the weather turned on me early in the afternoon, so I was burned out at about 3:30.

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Jul 30 2010
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edinburgh, Music

Edinburgh Fringe Festival coming up

The Fringe Festival in Edinburgh definitely does not compare to anything I’ve seen in Vancouver and Vancouver has a great fringe festival (for theatre). The thing that overwhelms me is the Edinburgh festival includes everything – Vancouver has plenty of festivals, but they all tend to focus on one kind of show like the fringe festival, and quite often in a particular genre (eg. the Folk Music Festival).

I’ve been scrolling through the Edinburgh festival guide at the different musical acts, theatre and dance performances, comedy shows and exhibitions. It’s all very overwhelming.

There are hundreds of diffent shows in each category and they come in every imaginable genre. More than 2000 shows total.

I don’t know very many of these acts or these venues, but I know I want to see some shows over the next couple weeks. I just have no way to make up my mind about which ones.

Next week will probably be me walking around listening for music or looking at posters and seeing what’s on that day. I’ll probably also take advantage of some of the free shows around the city, especially in the park below the castle where they set up a big stage.

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Jul 24 2010
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Thoughts and Musings

Relief

I’m finally getting settled in this city. I’ve found myself a place to live and am writing comfortably from along the shore of Leith, just north of the city of Edinburgh. I have some nice roommates and don’t have to put up with the hustle of a hostel.

And I liked the Westend Hostel where I was staying. It was clean and the people were less freaky than the usual hostel crowd, but with the big groups coming in and taking the place over and me having to switch rooms most nights I can’t say i was eager to keep living in a hostel.

Here I have my own room, internet, tv, space in kitchen and a dozen pubs within a stone’s throw. Plus Edinburgh is only a ten minute drive away. Its a bit more for me of course because i have to walk or catch a bus.

Plus, I walked out and a Robbie Burns statue is only a few blocks away. I’m not much for relying on signs or good luck, but that seemed like a good omen to me.

I’ve seen most of the key places for tourists. I walked up Calton Hill on my first night here. There is a monument up there to Lord Nelson, an observatory, a national monument with greek columns, and a view of the city that is hard to beat.

I did beat it though. A few days later I walked up to Arthur’s Seat and looked down on the whole city. The hike is just great and when I got up there I remembered reading that Arthur’s Seat is part of an extinct volcano. The rock at the top is a rust red colour. There were also some scraggly little plants that i couldn’t figure out, but I did appreciate the sound they made when the wind whistled through them.

I’ve been to the National Museum of Scotland, the National Gallery and enjoyed both. I haven’t been inside the castle yet. It costs 14 pounds to get in there, so I’ve been putting that one off. I also need to get over to Craigmillar Castle which I’m sure I’ll do this week. A couple of other highlights were the University of Edinburgh, the Meadows Park, Greyfriars Kirk, the football stadium, and Hollyrood Park.

I went to the writers museum and listened to all I could about Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson. I really lost myself there. I was sitting in the Rabbie Burns room and there was an audio recording of one of his letters. He was describing his upcoming arrival in Edinburgh to publish an expanded version of his successful printing of his poems.  The city was unknown to him and bore no resemblance to his life in Alloway. He had no letters of introduction that would put him in good standing with important locals. He was forced to rely on himself and have confidence that his adventure would go the way he hoped. And me sitting in a building not 50 feet away from where he sat. His house in Edinburgh is no longer there but the writer’s museum is on the same close.  I don’t write as well as he did but there is no author i sense more of myself in. He saw the unknown ahead of him, and he didn’t dip his toe in; he pressed on and jumped right in.

This week the challenge is finding some employment. The festivals are coming in August so that is my best bet to find some short term employment. Leith is also blessed with a few professional offices, and if I’m very lucky I might also find work there.

Jul 15 2010
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Finally here

I felt so jet lagged but i’m here, getting ready for my first night in edinburgh. I wandered around Glasgow for a couple hours this morning but after a couple hours of sleep i think i have enough brain cells that i can function again. so its time to go back at it.

Also, I had a beer this afternoon at a pub on Rose Street called Dirty Dick’s.

Jul 14 2010
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Thoughts and Musings

Today I leave for Scotland

I guess for most people it would be tomorrow, but its been July 14 for about an hour or two and I’m just too excited to sleep.

I tried going to bed twice but I’m having a little trouble shutting my mind off.

Unless I come up with a last minute brain wave, I’ve packed my bags with everything I’ll be taking with me. There is a lot of stuff I’d rather not leave behind, but I guess its in my interests to travel a bit lighter. I keep wondering what my life will be like just a few weeks from now. For the past few months I’ve been thinking about this little adventure, and now that its almost here I still can’t bring it into clear focus.

Reading usually helps me think more clearly, and I started a Michael Connelly book on the ferry the other day, so I expect I’ll be spending a lot of time with Harry Bosch over the next 24 hours trying to figure out who the serial killer is; considering the long flight and time waiting in airports, I might be finished the book by the time I land.

The last few weeks have been mostly devoted to getting the hay off the field, which still isn’t finished. There are still three or four loads of hay on the last field below the house. I’m feeling pretty strong now after throwing hay bails for two weeks; its not really enough time to get ripped but my arms definitely feel longer after lugging around and stacking some of those heavy ones.  I’m not sure what the final count will be, but its  one of the best years in a long time and dad should have no problem with the last few hundred bails – last week, we were wondering if there would be places to put all of it. 

I really should be sleeping right now because I’ll need to catch an early ferry off Denman Island to connect to my flight from Nanaimo to YVR; that will get me to the airport 3 hours before I my flight to Glasgow, Scotland around 1 pm. It’ll be around 6 am local time when I land on Thursday. I’ll be in Edinburgh later the same day. I’ve never been able to sleep very well on airplanes, and its quite possible I won’t sleep again for more than a few minutes until Thursday night.

While I wait for my train in Glasgow, I’ll be sure to grab lunch and a pint of a strong local beer – get this trip started right.

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Jun 25 2010
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One day of work left

Only one more day in the office. I’ve been counting the days for a while, but there is a certain satisfaction in getting to that last one. I expect there will be a lot of things that I’ll miss, but the little kid inside me can’t wait to go exploring so I’m not focusing on those things too much at the moment.  This is the way I wanted to leave: a lot of the key things that I needed to get done are either done or very nearly there. I’ll spend my last day at work saying goodbyes and tidying up those last few things. I’m feeling pretty good about that.

It looks like I’ll catch a ferry back to the island on Sunday. Weather permitting, dad will have some hay bailed and waiting in the field for me on the farm. That part of it I’m feeling less good about, but I suppose it’ll be a nice change.

Jun 22 2010
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My last week in Vancouver

There is very little time left for me in Vancouver. Less than one week to go. I’ve been trying to catch up with the people I have seen far too little of over the last couple months. Knowledge of the impending trip has made me a little more anti social than usual – this week is the opposite, and I’m busy almost every night this week.

I’ve been trying to decide how I feel about this city and my time here, but I’m lacking perspective I think. Courtenay to Victoria to Vancouver – those are the only cities I’ve come to know really well, but each is on such a different scale that there isn’t much to compare. If this trip works out well, I’ll have a more international outlook and I’ll be able to compare Vancouver to cities that are actually like Vancouver. Maybe then, after some time has passed, my experience here will come more into focus and I’ll know how I feel about the city. 

A lot has changed since I’ve been here. I’m more able to stand on my own than when I left the island, I’m more physically fit, I have skills that I didn’t have before – if I work at it, I can even pass for an adult. On those points, it’s definitely been a very positive time with lots of personal growth. However, it’s very hard to meet people here. I’m not sure why that is exactly. I might not be working hard enough or I could just be an odd case (probably the reason), but I haven’t really found many people in Vancouver that I click with and after going through that for the last few years I’m wondering if other cities would be different. I guess I’ll see.

In the book I’m reading right now, a character was describing his earlier life as the world’s best wheelman (he travelled with carnivals, setting up and operating those giant Ferris wheels): when he hurt himself and couldn’t do the work anymore, he spiralled downwards. He lost all his connections with the only world he’d ever known (he thought that was his perfect place and time, the place he really belonged). He became homeless, and a nasty drunk. Even before then he always thought of himself as the lone wolf, he didn’t need anything from anybody. The book is called the Ragged Company and all the members of the Ragged Company have a story and are slowly coming back to a normal-ish life after meeting each other and winning the lottery. Being a part of their little group changed him and the after-effects of the lottery win really accelerated it.

I suppose that travelling is my lottery – it’ll hopefully trigger a bit of a shake-up. Initiate a radical change to my life and wait to see what pops out. I’m anxious though. For no reason I can think of, I’m going for longer and longer walks around Vancouver.  Feeling a little nomadic I guess. Last night I took the bus from Commercial down to Kits for no particular reason and walked back to downtown over the Burrard Bridge. Spent a good hour and half walking around.

My living in a few places around Vancouver and walking around a lot should make me a bit of an expert on the city. If that were the case, I should probably have stronger feelings about leaving it. Maybe it’ll hit me later, a few months after I’ve gone.

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Jun 11 2010
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I’ve booked my flight

Its official I will be flying from Vancouver to Glasgow on Thomas Cook Airlines on July 14. There is no turning back now. In another 10 days or so I will have my UK Visa. Things are starting to fall into place.

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