L’illusioniste

Last week, I made the excellent decision to see a movie at the Cameo. It truly is an excellent venue – it’s the first movie theatre I have been to that not only has its own bar, but permits you to take your drink into the movie.  A perk that suits me fine. Besides this, the main reason that people in Edinburgh know the Cameo is for the art house films they specialize in.

L’illusioniste was made by Sylvain Chomet, the same director who did belleville rendez-vous (aka les triplettes of belleville) and was set mostly in the Edinburgh of the 1950’s with briefer moments in Paris, London, and the Scottish islands.

Its about an ageing, struggling magician who is slowly being pushed aside in favour of more popular rock and roll acts. His search for work forces him to leave Paris for London, then the Scottish isles, and finally to Edinburgh. While performing at a small village on the Scottish isles, he meets a kind but poor young girl who is enchanted by his illusions. She follows him to Edinburgh where he tries to keep the illusion alive for her by secretly taking menial jobs to subsidize his failing career prospects and to provide her with gifts. Her kindness transforms him over the course of the story and she has almost a cinderella reaction to a few pair of shoes, coats, and dresses.  

The animation was amazing. The images they showed of Edinburgh and Scotland in the 1950’s were as good as anything I’ve seen in animation. Its always fun to see places you recognize appear on screen. There was even a scene where the magician accidentally wandered into the Cameo Theatre – when you see something that hits that close, you almost want to turn around to see if he is really there. There was also a scene where he had taken a job performing in a shop window at Jenners, and I’d been there only a couple days before (I actually pass it everyday on my way to work).

I didn’t really have any plans to see a movie that night, but was very happy that I did and also happy that it was a movie with such a local connection. Edinburgh is not really known for being a hot spot of film making, so L’illusioniste is a rare story.

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New photos from Scotland

I finally got around to posting some photos to my Flickr photostream. I’m not finished yet, but I thought a few people might be interested in checking out what’s there so far.

Starting a new job Monday

Its just part time to start, but the guy running the company seems decent so I believe him when he says the company is going to get much busier and that there will probably be more hours for me when it does.

Things are looking up.

Haunted Edinburgh…I finally got around to a ghost tour

Considering my morbid tendencies, its surprising that this wasn’t one of the first things I did in Edinburgh, but a few nights ago I was walking through Grassmarket and saw a sign for a free ghost tour outside the Last Drop pub. Haymarket used to be home to the city’s gallows.

William Burke/the actor playing William Burke was our tour guide. It would be hard for the real William Burke to lead the tour since he was hanged, disected and buried in 1829.  A black comedy is coming out later this year based on the story, with Simon Pegg playing Burke.

I was a little disappointed that the tour didn’t go down to the vaults, apparently haunted by a nasty poltergeist, but thoroughly everything else. The guide told some of the more gruesome stories about Edinburgh past. I’d even heard a few of them as there is a blog about Edinburgh’s Dark Side that I really enjoy.

I even met a Canadian on the tour (from Cape Breton) who was proudly sporting his Canadian flag on his backpack.

The guide told a story that I had to check out, and it was about Sawney Bean and his incestuous family of cannibals who were robbing, murdering and eating travellers that they came across over a number of years. According to that blog I mentioned the story is probably not true; it was most likely made up by the english newspapers trying to depict Scots as more barbaric than they actually were. I was happy to hear that one of the more gruesome stories was likely not true, but the guide spun a few more tales that were almost as disgusting and also true. Edinburgh has had a very violent history.

Overall, I really liked the tour and would definitely do another.

With Halloween coming in about a month, I have to plan something creepy for myself and for Dimitri’s visit.

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Doors Open Day

After just over two months in Edinburgh, I guess I’m starting to get a little homesick. Not enough to come back, but I’m spending more minutes everyday thinking about family, friends, hockey, the CBC and all things Canada.

The feeling of homesickness could also have something to do with the very cold weather in Edinburgh right now. Its much easier to keep yourself distracted when you’re constantly on the go.

I’m taking a couple odd jobs to get by, but am still looking for decent work. Its a very tough job market here. A few places are hiring extra staff on for Christmas, which should lead to something at least for a few months.

On Sunday, I went out and took advantage of doors open day in Edinburgh. For those in Canada, doors open day is what it sounds like. Historical and modern buildings that aren’t normally open to the public are open for the day. I went to Calton Hill (one of my favourite spots), Merchant Hall, the University Library, and University School of Informatics. The Observatory House at Calton Hill is actually being converted into a Holiday Rental, which I thought was a very intriguing idea. I can only imagine what a stay there would be like once the building is renovated. The other buildings I saw were quite grand; as you’d expect the library and merchant hall were very Victorian with high ceilings, greek columns, grandfather clocks and portraits everywhere. The school of informatics building on the other hand was ultra modern with a very open design and is apparently very energy efficient; they also had a lot of cool toys.

Some places were open on Saturday and not Sunday, so I missed them. I’m not too broken up about that because they have this every year which will give me another chance.

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My Family Tree

I started a new project this morning. I went to the Scottish People’s Registrar Office for their daily introductory session, and to get a start on learning a bit more about my family tree and my scottish connections.

My priority is to find out more about my grandmothers family and if possible find clues that will help me meet living relatives. They have a website where you can search birth, marriage and death records for the last two centuries as well as old census information and a few other things. It being my first day, I only was interested in births, marriages and deaths.

It was a great start, but I’ll need to head back next week.

I found my grandparents’ marriage certificate on their system, and am starting to feel like a proper researcher. Pretty soon I’ll have to decide if there are any  things that I want copies of.  I don’t have such grandiose plans, but I know some people create massive family histories with rooms full of source material.

So far I’ve sketched out a few new branches on the family tree, but there is much more to do. Its a little time consuming to do all these searches, and some of the handwriting is very difficult to decipher or has faded over time.

It would be nice to have more of understanding of the family, ideally before I go up to the Cameron Museum east of Fort William. If I’m successful in tracking down some of my Scottish relatives, I might also find they have researched their genealogies and have information they can share with me.

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Edinburgh back to normal – I’m guessing

The Fringe festival is finally over, and the tourist numbers in the city centre have come way down. On Sunday night, they celebrated with fireworks and the Edinburgh Symphony Orchestra. The band is set up right below the castle in Princes Street Gardens and the fireworks are setup on the old battlements and launched upwards, lighting up the whole castle in the process.

I’d been down to the Royal Mile a few times since the festival had ended and its a completely different atmosphere. The chaos is way down, and you can mostly walk down the streets without getting close enough to know what your fellow tourists had eaten for lunch.

I watched the fireworks from Inverleith Park outside the city centre near the Botanical Gardens. They’d set up a big screen, speakers and a few food vendors to serve the two or three thousand people who were watching from there.  I wanted to get an idea how Vancouver Festival of Light’s compared to the Edinburgh show.

The orchestra was playing a few classical pieces composed for movies like On the Waterfront and Marnie. I’ve heard of both but don’t really know either well enough to have any memory of the music. Marnie actually stars Sean Connery. The orchestra was excellent, and I got to hear a few pieces of music that I don’t think I’ve really listened to before and enjoyed all of them. It got really cold later in the evening, but the orchestra was the biggest difference from the Celebration of Lights, which I think I still preferred in the end.

The Edinburgh show had a very unique piece though. There was a waterfall effect created down the side of the castle and hillside. Not many cities have such a backdrop to work with, and the people doing the show knew how to make the best use of it.

They’re probably very practiced from the Tattoo, which closes each show with a short fireworks demonstration above the castle.

Excellent backdrop for a very unique show.

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London Calling

August 24, 2010

  • King’s Cross / St. Pancras Station
  • Russel Square
  • West End (Soho and theatre district)
  • Picadilly Square
  • Tartines

August 25, 2010

  • British Museum (crystal skull, ancient Egypt, etc.)
  • London Underground
  • Tower of London
  • Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre
  • Tate Museum of modern art
  • Waterloo
  • Liverpool Street

London is another one of those cities that is easy to get lost in. A fact that I proved several times over.

On my first day, walking from King’s Cross/St. Pancras, I managed to walk about a kilometre in the wrong direction. I didn’t book my hostel beforehand and I wandered over to the tourist information centre to find out where I should go. I initially had one in mind that was around Picadilly, which is where the tourist office is, but I eventually settled on one near Russel Square (in Camden, the part of London not the city). Between my arrival in London and my checking in at the hostel, about three hours had passed and most of it was spent walking, particularly in the West End. All of this with a backpack and laptop bag.

It was either poor planning or maybe a part of me just wanted to suffer more.

I don’t know if the death march had anything to do with it, but I felt thoroughly out of place when I met up with Dimitri at his hotel. I’m sitting there in the lobby with my jeans, t-shirt and a warm coat and all the people who are walking in are wearing business suits – even the hotel staff are dressed formally. It felt more than a little intimidating.

I’m more used to staying in hostels where the definition of dressing up is to wear a collared shirt.

Dimitri and I wandered around the west end a little and found a place to eat. It was Belgium food and I had some tartines that I really enjoyed. You don’t normally have that many light and healthy meals on holiday, and it was a nice change.

I’m a little jealous of Dimitri because he has an exciting trip planned to Croatia, hiking and backpacking from town to town. He’s been working pretty hard lately and in his place I would probably prefer a more relaxed holiday, but he said he has couple easy days planned in there and I know he and Helene will have a great time meeting local people along the way.

Wednesday started off really good actually. I wandered over to the British Museum getting there just after 10am, and I spent the next 3 hours wandering from exhibit to exhibit. I’ve always loved old libraries and the great court is really an impressive sight for someone like me. The whole room is dedicated to the Enlightenment period, and is divided into different sections based on the key aspects of the enlightenment. The room has a high ceiling with a balcony on the second level, and old leatherbound books from the 1700’s and 1800’s fill bookshelves, protected by glass, that take up the entire length of the very long room. On the second level, some of the glass cases were open, presumably for researchers. On the ground level, shelves alternate between books and the artifacts acquired by some of the early collectors and patrons of the museum. I spent probably an hour just in that one room. Other exhibits on ancient Greece, Rome and Egypt were about what I’d expected, but I was a little in awe at the number of statues and artifacts that were on display. Especially since I know that what is on display is probably only a fraction of what they have in their collection.

As museums go, its probably the most impressive one I’ve been in. I have no doubt that I could go everyday for months and still not see everything.

The next spot on my agenda was the Tower of London. I managed to get there on the underground but by the time I arrived it had started to rain pretty heavily and it was already getting late in the afternoon. I opted to not go in as the 17 pounds and 2+ hours it would have taken would have kept me from seeing much else.

I decided to wander instead. Probably not ideal because I was getting soaked as I made my way over to the south side of the Thames. I found a few old neighbourhoods and outdoor markets on my way to the Globe Theatre. I stopped there for a hot chocolate and to dry off. My timing was not spot on because there weren’t any shows or tours that I could see.

I continued my wandering and decided to stop in at the Tate. In hindsight, I don’t really know why. Most modern art is really beyond my understanding and very little of it is beautiful in the traditional sense. I understand that art doesn’t really have to be nice to look at, and bringing out feelings or making you think are more likely goals, but when I looked at a few of the sculptures, photos and video my only thought was “why?” or “what the f**k?”

That’s what you get for being spontaneous.

I eventually made it over to Waterloo station (which is massive) before getting back on the underground to meet up with Dimitri near his job around Liverpool Street.

I was commenting to him that the people here must be very used to rain because there are so many covered markets and walkways. Unfortunately for us it was still raining (probably harder) when we finished dinner and neither of us felt too much like walking around exploring London in that weather.

Its good that I plan to return to London a few more times, because I really didn’t get to see as much as I wanted to.

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Arriving in London in 1.5 hours

 Its good to be a man of the world.

 Right now, I’m on a train on my way to London. I love trains and I’ve had some pretty fantastic scenery passing by out the window, it feels pretty good to be travelling in such style (not like being on a plane at all) and I don’t think this will be my only trip to the capital.

 Thats why I’m only going for a couple days. I know there is too much to see to get it all done before Thursday, so I’m not even going to try. I’ll do my tourist thing during the day; I’ll try to visit the British Museum, the Tower of London and a few other places. During the evening I can catch up with Dimitri and we can see a bit more.

London never had the same draw for me that Edinburgh has. London has been the cultural and financial capital of the UK for most of the millenium; there has been a city there since the time of ancient Rome. London was home to many literary greats and scientific pioneers. The city is probably depicted more in books and movies than any other in Europe, probably even more than Paris. In terms of History it should be more interesting than Edinburgh because of all that has happened here. I guess its probably because London has reinvented itself many times over its history. I know I’m not going to the city Shakespeare or Charles Dickens wrote about, but I’m not really sure what to expect.

Its probably not like a Guy Ritchie movie either. I was watching Rock’n Rolla on TV last week with my roommate, and I thought it was a little bit of a sacrilege that he did not know about the greatness of Lock Stock and Two Smoking Barrels and Snatch as he has been here much longer than me. He went to school here but apparently he didn’t attend any of the Guy Ritchie classes on creative violence and swearing. Snatch was one of the first english movies I saw that had english subtitles.

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Rugby last Saturday

Meeting people in a new city is always a bit of a challenge. This is why I’m trying a new strategy. I will continue going to meetup.com events around Edinburgh, but I’ll also be getting back into team sports.

I was playing hockey in Vancouver, but it was a more casual kind of game compared to the competitive hockey I played as a teenager. Unfortunately hockey is not really as viable an option in Edinburgh. There are two main problems: very few ice rinks for one and the fact that most people here think hockey is played on grass with thick, short wooden sticks; not much of a following. Bringing hockey equipment with me didn’t make much sense considering points one and two, but that would probably be point number three. As much as I’ll miss hockey (until the semi-pro team in Murrayfield starts up again), it is a good time to move on and experience something new.

Saturday was my first real experience at Rugby. I asked around and found a guy who works with a team in Leith and they let me come out to one of their training sessions. I had only a vague understanding of the rules at first and spent most of the day horribly out of position, but by the end I was really starting to get the hang of it.

As you can imagine, it was an incredible cardio workout. By the end of the practice, I was gasping pretty heavily. I hadn’t had very much to eat that morning, which was definitely a mistake because I felt pretty spent by the end… almost sick.

I was feeling a little worse for wear the next day too. Plenty of muscle aches and banged up more than a little. It was great.

I was actually planning on playing baseball the next day, but decided to put it off to recover. I’ll try doing that next weekend instead. I didn’t know how much I missed playing sports.

I took a few hits but there wasn’t too much contact. I think they were taking it a little easy on me on some things, but on others it was a trial by fire. With a little more practice, I think I could be playing competitive games by the end of the year. Positioning and teamwork are very important in the sport; Saturday was a great introduction because even though I spent most of the day out of position, I was getting more of a handle on the lines as the day went on. Defensively you have to keep a straight line with your teammates and offensively you have to keep a staggered line behind the ball (because you can only pass backwards). Its like hockey in that being able to move without the ball and join the play with speed is the key to scoring. I’ll probably play the front end because I’m stronger than I am fast, so Ill have to work on keeping low and keeping my feet moving after contact to push the opposition’s line back. Also getting the ball to settle behind me after I place it. I’m starting to realize how much contact there is in Rugby. You not only have to take the hit for the team as a last resort to make key play (like good hockey players), but sometimes running into the hit is the recommended course.

I’m planning on heading back on Thursday for another session.

I need to get myself a mouth guard and boots (cleats) pretty soon if I plan to keep this up. And keeping it up is what I want to do. I’ve only been out once but I think I’m close to getting hooked.

The coach said they had a guy on the team last year who at the start of the season hadn’t played a single game but at the end he was playing in matches and even scored a couple trys. That proves it can be done. He also said they get a few exhibition games and I might get a chance to play in some of those eventually. Speaking of exhibition, they even did a tour a couple years ago playing teams on Vancouver Island. Not really a surprise, but I guess its odd that I never learned how to play while I was in Canada.

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