Category Archives: Scotland

May 25 2011
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Scotland

Castle Campbell, Dollar

It’s hard to plan things to do when you know it’s going to be raining and probably windy… even tougher when that has been the weather in Scotland for most of the last few weeks.

One of the castles that I’ve really wanted to visit was Castle Campbell – AKA Castle Gloom; the pictures that show up in the guide books and calendars are so phenomenal and really peaked my interest. And since those who wait for perfect weather never go anywhere I decided to make the trip this past Saturday.

The castle overlooks the village of Dollar in Clackmannanshire – about half way between Stirling and St Andrews. It’s a very rural county and Dollar is a very small village (not near the motorway) so I had to first go to Stirling by train and then catch a bus.

I had read that the castle was about a forty minute walk from the town and was located in a large Glen – this location is why it is considered one of the most scenic in Scotland. But I found out that this was one castle that you really had to work for. In reality, the castle is barely visible from Dollar. The thick covering of trees that make up the Glen means you can only see the very top of it and only if your view is not otherwise obstructed, which was rare.

In a situation that is not unique in a country with so many castles (and such a love of golf), the castle provides a stunning backdrop for the local golf course.  This was pretty easy to see from the trail that I was following up the hill.

They say it’s supposed to be more about the journey than the destination, and this trip was a great example of that. I easily enjoyed the Glen and the network of trails surrounding the castle more than the castle itself.

The path up the hill was steep, narrow, and winding – any open clearings were covered in bluebells. Every castle needs a nearby source of fresh water and the stream that winds through the glen had dozens of spectacular waterfalls. The thick covering of trees also kept me mostly sheltered from the rain and wind that was pretty constant through most of the hike. I stopped for a few a photos so it took about 45 minutes to walk all the way up to the castle.

Clan Campbell is one of the biggest and probably the most famous Scottish clan. Their power came from their powerful fleet and ability to choose the winning side to almost any conflict. However, they were traditionally based around Argyll and a few of the islands. The castle was built in the 15th century originally by the Stewart’s but would provide an eastern power base for the Campbell’s when it passed to them by marriage. The powerful families of those days all wanted to have property within a short journey of the capital – so they could plot, scheme, and asskiss their way to more power and land. This would be part of the reason the clan was not so popular. However, they were not unique in Europe as every kingdom had families who would come into wealth this way. They also supported Robert the Bruce before it was popular, so that has to count for something too.

When I arrived at the castle, the first thing I noticed was the scaffolding. I seem to have pretty bad luck when it comes to visiting castles under restoration, but this time there were only a few areas where I could not go. One of my next thoughts was about how difficult it would have been to build a castle here back then. It’s a steep walk, and there would have been no road to get all of those heavy stones up to this remote spot.

The view from the garden was amazing. You could see Dollar, the Glen, and the two larger hills on either side of the castle. This castle really did feel remote. Besides the sheep farm on the slope, there is nothing behind it but more hills.

The castle has not been occupied in a very long while. After the civil war, and when the king had been brought back, the Earl of Argyll was killed for betraying the king and choosing Cromwell while the castle was burned by the Ogilvy’s and the McLean’s.

It’s a spectacular ruin and very well looked after, but I only stumbled around the keep and a few of the rooms for a short while before heading back out to try some more trails.

The little boy in me just loves running around the woods by myself. You can run up a hill, jump over a log or around a tree without feeling even a little self conscious. Because of the weather, the thick woods and winding trail, you would not even notice another person until they are almost on top of you. There is no one around to see you or pass judgement. It’s the most innocent kind of play time.

I had a great time and the only drawback from the trip was how wet it was.

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Mar 10 2011
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Food, Scotland, Thoughts and Musings

Pie

There are many truly amazing things about Scotland. Of course, there is the rich and often bloody history, the beautiful natural landscapes, and obviously the whiskey. One that often escapes mention is that you can get all you meat dishes in pastry form.

  • Sausage rolls
  • Cornish pasties
  • Steak pies
  • Scotch pies
  • Chicken/Steak bake

Some would say that this diet is not in your long term interest and those people would probably be right. However, it is essential to eat like a local as much as possible. In Scotland, that means takeaway shops. Pies and pasties have fuelled the Scottish working man for generations…who am I complain.

As you’d expect, there are some takeaway places that are just disgusting. Though the good ones call you back with their close proximity to home (or the pub) and the alluring and dominating scent of grease.  Gregg’s are a chain of bakeries, by far the biggest in the Edinburgh area. If you haven’t eaten in a while or don’t expect to, their steak and chicken bakes are a nice snack to get you through the next hour or two. The best thing about them is that they are warm and you can easily eat them while walking.  They’re not gross, but are definitely fast food. The Piemaker is on north bridge, and tastes much better than Gregg’s. It is just around the corner from the Jazz Bar, and is open late. Very convenient for a late night sausage roll.  Rose Street is another good one if I’m in the new town. For most other things, I tend to stop at the Tailend or Eatalia’s on Leith Walk. I’m sure there are better places to eat, but you can’t beat the convenience. A scotch pie is better enjoyed at home, where there are metal forks and warm chairs to sit in. I really can’t be bothered to walk 30 minutes to 1 hour for takeaway – it’s usually a cold walk and it really defeats the purpose. But in summary, meat and pastry is mmm….mmm…good

 

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Feb 17 2011
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England, Scotland, Travel

Update – 17 Feb 2011 – INCLUDING NEW PHOTOS

It has recently been hard to find time to do the writing that I want to do on this blog. The last couple weeks have been very hard on me. I’ve covered an immense amount of territory but have had too much happening besides that. I visited East Lothian, Glasgow again, and spent last weekend in York. I have had several job interviews, each requiring some preparations and travel.

My thoughts have been preoccupied with home. But right now, I feel useless. However, its much tougher on my aunt and my mom so I really have no cause to complain. On the other hand, I did cover a lot of ground recently so I thought an update was in order.

North Berwick

This is a small coastal village to the south east of Edinburgh. Its home to Bass Rock, an amazing beach, the sea bird education centre and a picturesque high street. Plus, its very easy to get to by rail. The geography of the village is bizarre. Along the shore, west of the harbour, there is a golf course and park – the golf shop itself is built into a hill, and is under the surrounding grounds on three sides. The harbour and sea bird centre are on a peninsula, and at the end of a street of very colourful cottages. Above the village is an incredibly steep hill/mountain that rises out of no where. Bass Rock is out in the ocean, to the east. No people live on Bass Rock, just thousands of birds and an old lighthouse. However, a few centuries ago those steep cliffs and same birds provided a naturally formed Scottish fortress. Small groups of men could subsist on fish and those same birds for months at a time. The only way up Bass Rock was if someone lowered you a rope. Also, a wilderness trail along the glen was hiding some very interesting old ruins – several old mills and storage buildings. Along a creek, the mills took advantage of the running water to turn their windmills. From this trail, I continued along to my next destination.

Tantallon Castle

Seeing an old fortress like this can really work the imagination. During the civil war, forces loyal to the king were using Tantallon Castle as a base to attack Cromwell’s forces. Apparently, these attacks were very effective because an army of 3000 was dispatched to capture the stronghold and dislodge the 200 men who were stationed there. The army loyal to Cromwell completed their mission and left the castle in a sorry state, but this could not have been an easy task. This is one of the most secure looking castles that I have seen so far. It backs onto a cliff. There is an outer wall and several ditches to funnel potential invaders into a long exposed corridor before they reach the castle’s only entrance. Four towers would have provided defense. The central tower/gate had thick walls reinforced with a softer stone on the outside to absorb artillery attacks. It had been seiged other times, once by the King of Scotland, who failed to capture the fortress by force from the powerful Earl who owned it. Later that Earl offered the fortress to the King after the two of them patched up their differences. The views from this castle were pretty amazing. The ocean, Bass rock, the surrounding farmland, etc. all look better from the top of a 600 year old castle.

Dirleton

Unfortunately, I arrived just too late for Dirleton Castle and Gardens. I spend forty minutes walking there from North Berwick and I miss out by five minutes. It may be worth going back in the spring so I can go in and see the gardens. Like most villages, Dirleton had a small inn and a parish church but most of the surrounding area was woods and farmland. There is a law in the UK that lets you wander, even on private land. This is good because it can take a very long time if you follow the road only – being able to walk as the crow flies is a huge time saver when the roads all switch back through small farms.

Glasgow

I was there for a job interview, but had plenty of time before and after. I walked around the Mary Hill area and went down to what I think is called the Clyde and Forth canal. After the interview, I came back into the centre of town and walked around. I saw the old cinema, St Aloysius school before going to the river walkway and getting some photos of the bridges over the Clyde.

York

It was great to see Dimitri and Helene again. Probably my favourite part of York was the National Railway Museum – I went on both Friday and Sunday. There was a huge collection of trains and coaches. A Eurostar, japanese bullet train, the Hogwarts Express, the Flying Scotsman, the Evening Star, the royal coaches as well as some early steam trains including a replica of the Stephenson Rocket. After all those hours playing Railroad Tycoon II, I was finally able to put all of that information to use.

The hostel was very unique and I liked staying there for the most part – however, the bathrooms were tiny and the showers were two feet from the toilet. On the plus side, there was a very good free breakfast and a TV and games room in the basement

Dimitri and I did a ghost tour – the tour guide mentioned a few prominent ghosts including an incident involving Guy Fawkes’ former home. Its tradition to burn Guy Fawkes in effigy on November 5th, but apparently he was not too happy when after many years of avoidance, his old school planned to take up the tradition.

York has been an important city back to Roman times, so there was no shortage of old buildings to check out. Yorkminster is massive (but also quite expensive so I didn’t do the full tour). Walking through the old streets (or gates) was very different from any city I’ve seen in Scotland. The architecture is very different and its great to look up at the buildings and see the dates, many of them over 500 years old. Because they didn’t really build foundations, many of the older ones also have a good lean to them. There are also more than a few boughed roofs.

On Saturday morning, Dimitri and I did a tour and walked the city wall. Along with Helene we covered a lot of ground and probably retraced our steps through the city centre several times over. I found out that Yorkshire was the home to Beatrix Potter so Peter Rabbit merchandise was quite common. We also had some Yorkshire Pudding, which was not as good as mom’s, but was still a necessary culinary choice while in York. The river recently breached its banks so there was a fair amount of mud when we did the river walk out to Millennium Bridge. According to the ghost tour guy, one of these floods brought a body downriver before it was eventually caught up at the Kings Arms Pub; so close but not able to get inside for a last pint. What is the expression: “water, water, everywhere, but not a drop to drink.”

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Dec 03 2010
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Scotland

Brrrrrrrrrrrrrr

So much snow has fallen over the past week that I feel like I could be in New Brunswick. Until this morning, it hadn’t really stopped snowing for more than a couple hours at a time. And even if the snow lightens up, the meteorologists are saying that the weather will be cold until after Christmas.

Royal Mail wasn’t doing pickup all week. The buses were slow but they were running.  Loads of people who come into Edinburgh from Fife, the Borders, or further have not been able to get around very well either. The country isn’t really grinding to a halt, but it has definitely slowed down a bunch.

Sep 10 2010
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Scotland

My Family Tree

I started a new project this morning. I went to the Scottish People’s Registrar Office for their daily introductory session, and to get a start on learning a bit more about my family tree and my scottish connections.

My priority is to find out more about my grandmothers family and if possible find clues that will help me meet living relatives. They have a website where you can search birth, marriage and death records for the last two centuries as well as old census information and a few other things. It being my first day, I only was interested in births, marriages and deaths.

It was a great start, but I’ll need to head back next week.

I found my grandparents’ marriage certificate on their system, and am starting to feel like a proper researcher. Pretty soon I’ll have to decide if there are any  things that I want copies of.  I don’t have such grandiose plans, but I know some people create massive family histories with rooms full of source material.

So far I’ve sketched out a few new branches on the family tree, but there is much more to do. Its a little time consuming to do all these searches, and some of the handwriting is very difficult to decipher or has faded over time.

It would be nice to have more of understanding of the family, ideally before I go up to the Cameron Museum east of Fort William. If I’m successful in tracking down some of my Scottish relatives, I might also find they have researched their genealogies and have information they can share with me.

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Sep 09 2010
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Scotland

Edinburgh back to normal – I’m guessing

The Fringe festival is finally over, and the tourist numbers in the city centre have come way down. On Sunday night, they celebrated with fireworks and the Edinburgh Symphony Orchestra. The band is set up right below the castle in Princes Street Gardens and the fireworks are setup on the old battlements and launched upwards, lighting up the whole castle in the process.

I’d been down to the Royal Mile a few times since the festival had ended and its a completely different atmosphere. The chaos is way down, and you can mostly walk down the streets without getting close enough to know what your fellow tourists had eaten for lunch.

I watched the fireworks from Inverleith Park outside the city centre near the Botanical Gardens. They’d set up a big screen, speakers and a few food vendors to serve the two or three thousand people who were watching from there.  I wanted to get an idea how Vancouver Festival of Light’s compared to the Edinburgh show.

The orchestra was playing a few classical pieces composed for movies like On the Waterfront and Marnie. I’ve heard of both but don’t really know either well enough to have any memory of the music. Marnie actually stars Sean Connery. The orchestra was excellent, and I got to hear a few pieces of music that I don’t think I’ve really listened to before and enjoyed all of them. It got really cold later in the evening, but the orchestra was the biggest difference from the Celebration of Lights, which I think I still preferred in the end.

The Edinburgh show had a very unique piece though. There was a waterfall effect created down the side of the castle and hillside. Not many cities have such a backdrop to work with, and the people doing the show knew how to make the best use of it.

They’re probably very practiced from the Tattoo, which closes each show with a short fireworks demonstration above the castle.

Excellent backdrop for a very unique show.

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Aug 03 2010
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Scotland

Historic Scotland – Stirling

On Sunday, I took the train up to Stirling. The castle up there is pretty amazing, but getting there was a lot of work. The entire old town is on a steep hill. The roads up are winding and narrow and steep. I read that the old horse drawn carriages often got stuck on the narrow cobble stone streets.

After leaving the train station, I made my way over to the outer city walls. Just above the tourist information centre, just outside the city walls, there is a statue of Rob Roy McGregor – the Scottish folk hero. The guy didn’t look anything like Liam Neeson.

There were a few big tourist / student groups that I saw on my way up the hill. A big group was in the old kirk, which I found out was an important place in the Scottish Reformation. In the cemetery outside, there were headstones dating back to the 1500’s, all facing east. From there it was a short walk up to the castle; they’re both right at the top of the hill.

While I was there, I signed up for a membership in Historic Scotland. For about 40 pounds, I get unlimited admissions to sites all across Scotland including Edinburgh castle. I should get plenty of use out of that membership.

Stirling is also close to the sites of the two most important battles for Scottish independence. Stirling Bridge was William Wallace’s most decisive victory over the English. They don’t show a bridge in the movie Braveheart, but Wallace allowed half an English army to cross the bridge before isolating and devastating the English troops. Bannockburn was the most important victory of Robert the Bruce and was the decisive battle ensuring scottish independence. Bannockburn also required Robert the Bruce to adapt the terrain to his advantage.

I didn’t make it to the university, the Wallace Monument, or Bannockburn because they were all outside the city centre, which was about an hour by train from Edinburgh. The palace inside the castle was being renovated but there was still a lot to see around the grounds: the great hall, kitchens, the medieval weaving centre, the regimental museum, the gun batteries. A few of those living history actors were also around. Its a popular tourist site.

It was a long walk to the bridge after my steep climb, and the weather turned on me early in the afternoon, so I was burned out at about 3:30.

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