Category Archives: Scotland

May 14 2012
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Scotland

Blair Castle

Blair Castle is the seat of the Murrays of Atholl. More than any castle or country home I’ve been to so far, the decor is all about hunting which is understandable when you consider the beautiful grounds it sits on.

Its hard to paint a full picture, but visiting the castle was a highlight of our visit to Pitlochry. One of the first things you notice is the wild man of Atholl. He is absolutely everywhere.

He is part of the Murray family crest, and is usually holding a key and an axe with both his arms raised. According to the legend, the wild man of Atholl was supposed to be a great hunter from the area who was sent after a marauding MacDonald who was stealing cattle and terrorizing the countryside. He brought his quarry back in chains.

The groundfloor hallway is lined from end to end with stag antlers and the grand ballroom is filled with taxidermy. The Murray family have also collected paintings, furniture, and tapestries with a definite hunting theme. The drawing room was filled with stuffed birds and small animals wearing hats.

One of my favourite paintings from the trip – John Murray, 4th Duke of Atholl

I couldn’t place where I’d seen it before, but it probably would have been at the National Gallery of Scotland by Princes Street Gardens. Apparently, this was a controversial portrait at the time because the Duke was wearing a kilt at a time when wearing tartan was banned (because of its association with the Jacobite uprising).

You can see the castle in the background, but I like the sleeping dog in the foreground – he looks like he has had a full day helping the master with the hunt.

Blair castle has gone through several transformations over the years, and is still a residence even today. The earliest part of the castle dates back to the 13th century, but it went substantial renovations during the Georgian and Victorian periods.

We walked through each of the rooms, and saw some interesting artifacts including the armor worn by Bonnie Dundee when he died at Killecrankie and a chair made almost entirely from deer antlers on the central staircase. The house and furniture is all very luxurious, and you can imagine that each item has a lot of history.

Outside we explored the woods and made our way over to the old Kirk and Hercules Garden where we could look back for some impressive views of Blair Castle. The surrounding trails on the estate provide some more idyllic views, but since this was a short visit we made our way back to Blair Athol and then Pitlochry.

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Apr 29 2012
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Scotland, Sport

Rec Hockey in Dumfries – Scottish Plate Weekend

Unfortunately, we didn’t win it like we’d hoped, but it was a fun weekend all the same.

The structure is a little bizarre. Instead of playing three 20 minute periods, each game was two 15 minute periods so even though we played three games on Saturday that was only 90 minutes of running time hockey.

I play goalie for a team called the Edinburgh Stingers

We won our first game against the Dundee Devils by a score of 3 – 2. This game could have very easily been a tie, but we got lucky because of a slightly odd rule that meant one of the Devils goals was called back. All penalties in the tournament were supposed to be called right away (no delayed penalties). So when one of our players hooked a guy coming in on a breakaway they had to call it back when the guy scored.

The second game was against the Highland Capitals. We played with them but they got 2 goals in the first few minutes of the first period and we couldn’t come back. We played them to a scoreless draw in the second period but couldn’t get the offense we needed. The teams were closely matched so if we’d gotten more shots on goal, this game could have gone in our favour.

The third game was against the Dumfries Demons. We’d watched them play the Capitals to a draw earlier in the day so we felt like we had a good chance. They even beat the Glasgow Chiefs, which was a surprise. However, this game did not go well for us from start to finish. We did a lot of puck chasing and didn’t find ourselves in their zone for very much of the game.  The worst bit was I took a hard slap shot through traffic off the inside of the leg that has now swollen up to a nice bruise.

Unfortunately, by the start of our fourth game, we’d been eliminated from medal contention so our game against Glasgow was going to be our last. I started, and George the other goalie went in for the second period. We lost the game making our record 1-3, which was a little disappointing (its always more fun to win) but it was a whole weekend playing and watching hockey which is a pretty fine way to spend a weekend.

The Dumfries rink is a little smaller than the ones at Murrayfield or Dundee, and I feel like I spent most of this trip either at the rink or the hotel. I didn’t feel like I had the energy or inclination to do a proper tour around Dumfries and Galloway, but may do that over the next couple of months. I’ve yet to make a visit to the Globe Tavern or the Robbie Burns House plus there is some good cycling in that area that may warrant further investigation.

The Wickerman Festival is also nearby, so will have to see about that.

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Apr 25 2012
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Scotland

Visiting Pitlochry

This past weekend, we took an overnight trip to Pitlochry in Perthshire for a little exploration and adventure.

I’d heard good things about it but was a little disappointed that there wasn’t more to do. The village is very tiny – you can walk from one end to the other in a matter of minutes. The buildings are beautiful and the whole place is filled with hotels and very picturesque. We even had dinner and drinks at the Old Mill Inn. We ended up going for a walk on Saturday and enjoying a little of the countryside. There are some pretty fantastic views within a short walk.

Getting up in the morning, we passed a group of two dozen cyclists – there was literature at the hostel highlighting some of the cycling trails nearby and bike shops in town. We hadn’t made plans to go cycling, so ended up catching a bus to the nearby Blair Castle and Gardens.

I think I’ll do a later post about the castle because it was pretty packed full of history.

After finishing there, we took a walk around the grounds. It was a little strange actually because a lot of North American trees were planted including some big Douglas Firs and California Redwoods. It almost felt like I was walking through a forest  back home.

On the edges of the grounds was the old kirk, resting place of Bonnie Dundee, the Jacobite general immortalized by Sir Walter Scott in the famous folk song.

Bonnie Dundee by the Corries

Bonnie Dundee, aka the Bluidy Clavers, actual name was John Graham 7th Laird of Claverhouse, was a professional soldier, close friend of Bonnie Prince Charlie, and military leader of the Jacobite army. He died at the Battle of Killecrankie which was fought nearby. It was an important victory for the Jacobites, but also a costly one.

Without their leader, Killecrankie was followed up by a major defeat nearby at Dunkeld.

From Blair Castle, we walked backed to Blair Atholl, and then went on to the Killecrankie visitor centre for lunch before starting a hike back to Pitlochry. There was lots of information about the battle including a few interesting sights along the way. Like the name suggests, Soldier’s Leap is the place from where a retreating government soldier leaped from the rocks into the river below to escape pursuing Jacobites.

The railway viaduct was really impressive, and we passed a high bridge with a bungee jumping platform. Its weird because its something I’ve wanted to do for a while but have really got around to.

Lots of people were taking advantage of the outdoors. People were fishing, biking, walking their dogs, and it was a good six mile walk from the visitor centre to Pitlochry. Luckily we had some decent weather to do it in.

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Apr 15 2012
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Scotland

Blackness Castle

Just made a day trip to Blackness Castle. The castle is on the shores of the Firth of Forth in West Lothian, about 2 miles from Bo’Ness and fairly  near Edinburgh.

The castle is unique in that it is remarkably complete. It was built in the 15th century and has been in almost continuous use for most of its life. It protects the Forth and the port of Linlithgow, and though it is smaller than the castles in Stirling or Edinburgh it has seen numerous sieges over its history.

The landscape offers excellent defense and the walls here are extremely thick. From the outside, the castle design greatly resembles that of a ship, which is new one for me.

The village of Blackness is very tiny – not so much as a shop, cafe, or pub (that was open) and just a few houses.

I’m guessing this relatively remote location made the castle a perfect place to store ammunition which was its primary function from 1870 up until WWI. It was also a minor military barracks, but its primary purpose (other than defense was as a prison. The castle itself has a very rugged and one could argue grim appearance (nothing like picturesque Urquhart or Castle Campbell), but you can see a natural beauty there as well in the way it rises out of landscape.

At the time Blackness Castle was built Linlithgow was the primary royal residence and Blackness was the primary port – the castle was built by the Crichton’s but soon passed to James II. Fortifications were added in the mid 16th century making it one of the most advanced artillery forts in Scotland, but that didn’t prevent it from falling to Cromwell’s army a century later.

It was recently used during filming for the movie Doomsday.

Travelling around the countryside is not so easy when you don’t have a car, I managed to get the train to Linlithgow and a bus from there to Blackness. Unfortunately there are only four buses a day that go Blackness so rather than wait around for another 2.5 hours in a village with no pub or cafe I walked back to Bo’Ness  along the shore route to catch a bus from there – its nice to feel like you have the time to take an impromptu 90 minute hike, especially since it did get me home an hour sooner.

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Mar 25 2012
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Scotland

The Second Visit to Stirling Castle

During my first visit to Stirling Castle (18 months ago) I was disappointed to find a large section closed off for renovations. The Royal Apartments were being done up to look like they would have during the time of Mary of Guise, widow of James V and mother of Mary Queen of Scots. Stirling was the seat of power for several Stuart Kings, and since her husband James V died before they would have been completed, Mary of Guise ruled from these apartments as regent.

Stirling was one the most strategically important castles of the time, and has great natural defenses. The entire old town sits atop an extinct volcano overlooking the River Forth and the primary route from the Highlands to the lowlands passed through the town.

The castle changed hands several times during the war of independence and Robert the Bruce’s eventual victory at the Battle of Bannockburn took place nearby. However, most of the current buildings are from the 15th and 16th centuries as Stirling increased in its importance as a royal residence. James V wanted his palace to be grand, and impress any other European ruler coming through its gates, particularly his new bride Mary of Guise.

In a lot of ways, there is far more to see at Stirling’s castle than there is at Edinburgh Castle. There is the Great Hall, the Royal Apartments, the kitchens, the regimental museum, the tapestry studio, and Argyll’s Lodging just a short walk away. Plus, in the hour and change before Aarti’s train got there I got to walk around a bit, and I made it over to the heading hill where the beheading stone sits.

I really liked the short walk around Argyll’s lodging. The tour guide seemed really knowledgeable and enthusiastic about the evolution of the house and how each of the owners put their touches on it.

We even bought a bottle of nice local Drumgray whisky liqueur from the castle shop, which Aarti and I opened tonight. Even though there are some similarities, it tastes very different than bailey’s. Drumgray uses a single malt whisky and a scottish double cream.

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Dec 16 2011
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Scotland

The Mysterious Rosslyn Chapel

Despite numerous recommendations, I admit that I never bothered to read the Davinci Code.  Even when they made it into a movie, I waited until it came out on dvd before finally seeing what all the fuss was about.

One of the scenes I remember well is when Tom Hanks and Audrey Tautou discover the waiting members of the Priory of Scion at Rosslyn Chapel.

Before coming to Scotland, I was not surprised to learn that Rosslyn Chapel was attracting plenty of tourists long before getting Davinci Code publicity. Not only was it was a key stop among wealthy Victorians who were exploring the rich architecture of the Borders, but it was also an important pilgrimmage site for its connection to the Knights Templar, Free Masons, and the Holy Grail.

I’m not the type to believe in conspiracy theories, but after visiting it in person I can tell why so many people believe there is more of a story to this beautiful building.  The number of carvings and their beauty and precision is incredible for such a small church in a small village. It’s about a 40 minute bus ride from Edinburgh City Centre.

The 15th Century Rosslyn Chapel was initially intended to be much larger, but its founder, William St. Clair died before it could be completed.

Inside the chapel, there are 110 green men carvings. The exact meaning of them is not very clear, but they usually appear as a face with greenery around them and roots protruding from the mouth. They’re thought to be a symbol of fertility and renewal, and are believed to be pre-Christian in origin. It might seem odd to find pagan symbols in a Christian church, but these green men can be found in many other UK churches. There are many other Christian rituals and symbolism that can be traced back to pagan traditions.

The chapel itself is filled with images of animals and nature. There is a carving that many believe to be corn / maize from many years before North America was discovered.  Some take this as proof that William’s ancestor Henry had visited North America – some suspect that Henry was a member of the Knights Templar.

photo taken November 19, 2011

There is also a legend about the carved pillars in Rosslyn. St. Clair wanted one of the pillars to be based on a design that he had seen in Rome. Before beginning the work, the master mason wanted to study the pillar for himself so he journeyed to Rome. Travelling was far more difficult in those days, and such a trip would have taken him years. While he was away, his apprentice wanted to carve the pillar himself and when the master mason returned, he saw a pillar that overshadowed his own and flew into a rage. He struck his apprentice on the head with a mallet, killing him. The mason was convicted of the murder and executed, and a carving was produced so he would be forced to look down on his apprentice’s pillar for all eternity.

The crypt below the chapel has been sealed for centuries, which has fueled rumours of what might be buried there. It could be the remains of Mary Magdalene, the treasure of the Knights Templar, or even the Holy Grail itself. No one really knows.

An extensive search for an entrance was made in the 19th century, but none was found.

I don’t really believe in these myths of the Knights Templar or Free Masons, but Rosslyn Chapel is an architectural marvel and more than a fine example of medieval masonry. Its amazing how much of it has been preserved considering it was left empty for so many years.

Due to a problem with the damp, a protective cover (recently removed) was placed over it for nearly ten years while restoration work was done. Conservation work is still in progress, but most areas were accessible.

A new cafe, gift shoppe, and ticket center was also built to accommodate the tens of thousands of tourists visiting the chapel.

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Nov 07 2011
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Scotland

Oban: 30 minutes of fireworks in 1 minute

A coworker was telling me about this; the technical fuckup got more attention for Oban than any Bonfire night show.

 

 

 

 

 

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Jul 29 2011
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Scotland

Isle of Arran

Arran is often called Scotland in miniature. A friend even told me that before I came over.

A few weeks back, we made the journey from Ardrossan to celebrate my 27th birthday. My first Scottish ferry journey.  We wasted no time in checking out Brodick Castle and getting a start up Goat’s Fell (the hill that looks down over the harbour).

Cloudy ain't it

The weather was pretty crummy, and I got extremely wet before starting to head back. I was strolling up in the clouds, and didn’t make it to the summit because the rain was making me cold and the rocks slippery. We probably started too late in the day, and were in dire need of hot chocolate and a change of clothes.

The next day, we were determined to go kayaking. However, we weren’t up there in time for the morning trip so we rented a couple of bikes and took  the road from Brodick up to Sannox. Around Sannox, there was a pretty good size hill and I lost Aarti for a little while. We decided to head back, and a good thing too because it started to rain very hard about ten minutes later. We sought refuge in a pub in Corrie until the rain calmed down.

On our way back, we stopped at a local cheese shop for some arran cheese and fudge.

I don’t remember any of my previous kayaking trips requiring a wet suit but they gave us wet suits this time. We made roughly the same trip by kayak that we had just made by bike, but it was still really fun.

My arms were getting really tired by the end (we either did a lot that day or I’m really out of shape), and my legs were getting a bit sore too. The adjustable handles where you put your feet kept sliding down so I don’t think I was ever sitting right for very long.

We even had a curious onlooker following us a while. This little sea otter was quite interested in us for about ten minutes.  Speaking of sea life, there were also a lot of jellyfish so probably not a good swimming area.

We didn’t make it up to the north coast at Lochranza or down south to Kildonan or Lamlash so we may need to make a trip back where we can cover a bit more ground. The buses were really good if you wanted to meet up with the ferry, but lousy otherwise.  I think you could easily spend four or five days on Arran, so I thought we did pretty well for a day and a half.

Jul 29 2011
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Scotland, Travel

Elgin Cathedral

While in Inverness, Aarti and I made a day trip over to Elgin in Moray. Its pretty famous because of the whiskey distilleries in the area.

We spent most of our time here exploring the cathedral ruins.  It was built in the 13th century, and the you can tell that the decoration was extremely detailed.

The cathedral was burned by the Wolf of Badenoch, Alexander Stewart, who had a reputation for exceptional cruelty even by the standards of the time. The 14th and 15th centuries saw substantial rebuilding, but the cathedral fell into disuse after the reformation.

From the top of the tower, you get views over the whole city. Its not especially unique, but an old college and large park are located right next to the cathedral so its definitely worth climbing the narrow stairs.

The gargoyles and some of the memorial statues are also very worth seeing.

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Jul 29 2011
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Scotland, Travel

Inverness and Fort George

Wow, I feel really behind. My Inverness trip was like a month ago.

Inverness is 4 to 5 hours on the train from Edinburgh, and is considered the capital of the highlands. To prove it, there were lots of shaggy highland cows to be seen on the train ride up.

This photo was actually taken on Arran, but the coos are the same.

Inverness is small, but its also considered one of the fastest growing towns in the UK. There is a really good mix of modern and historical buildings. There is also some shipping and manufacturing going on, so its not an unchanging tourist hub. Instead, it is a living city.

There is plenty for a tourist to do, but we soon found out that most of the attractions were a bus ride away.

We camped out at a caravan park near the river, and a short walk away from town. Every year, they have a big Highland Games not very far from where we were at.

The high street was pretty active, but we didn’t manage to spend a lot of time there on the first night. Above the high street, Inverness Castle looks down on the river but it didn’t hold our attention as much because it was built more recently and was more styled as a large home than a fortress. It does give you some amazing views of the river Ness and the cathedral spires across the water. Walking along the river, you get a proper tranquil holiday feel. Fishermen were even standing out in the river in waders, which I haven’t seen very often in Scotland (but I’m told its very common up in Moray Speyside).

The next morning, we managed to take a bus out to Urquhart Castle on Loch Ness.
Urquhart Castle has seen a lot of battles and I was really impressed by the video they put on in the presentation centre showing its history. The castle changed hands  many times over the centuries but was most recently held by the clan Grant. Prior to that the castle was a held by the MacDonalds. When the Lord of the Isles and the Black Douglas conspired with the English against James IV, the castle fell back to the Scottish crown who then gave it to the clan Grant.

The castle saw many years of war. Viking attacks and attacks from other clans were pretty constant up until the Jacobite period. Its destruction was to prevent it from becoming a stronghold for the Jacobites. It is also very likely that there was an earlier wooden fort on the same location.

After getting back to Inverness, Aarti and I checked out Leakey’s Book Shop for about 40 minutes. I would highly recommend it. Its just what a used book shop should be. Leatherbound covers mixing with modern paperbacks on two floors connected by an old wooden staircase. Boxes of unstacked books scattered throughout.

After that we caught a bus out to Fort George for the afternoon.

There was a lot of walking that afternoon. A lot more than either of us expected. We had to walk about 40 minutes from where the bus dropped us in order to get to the Fort. On  the plus side, we were able to get some tasty local ice cream when we finally arrived.

Its still an active army barracks, but was never used as intended. It was built as a stronghold to defend against further highland uprisings. On our way back, we saw a few guys kite surfing. Not sure if they were army guys, but very cool all the same.

We had some pretty serious issues with the buses on that afternoon. Due to a accident, the bus didn’t stop where it was supposed to and we had to walk along a rural road for about an hour just to find out that it would be another hour to get a bus from the Inverness airport. We grabbed a cab back to the town centre feeling very tired and hungry.

 

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