Category Archives: edinburgh

Weekend in Edinburgh

Its been a  tough couple of days as I’ve been fighting off a bit of a cold this week. Starting to get better though.

On Friday, Aarti and I went out to see the Lincoln Lawyer. She’s never read any Michael Connelly, but we were both pretty happy with how the film turned out. I met up with friends on Saturday, had lunch, and explored some pubs on Leith walk.  Fortunately, there are tons of them on that street. Too many to explore in a single pub crawl.

I’m playing baseball again. It still feels a bit weird, but I’m getting it back again very slowly. I even put on the catchers gear this afternoon.

Hogmanay

I’ve always taken for granted that everyone celebrates New Year’s. Of course some cultures have their own calendars and New Year’s Day may be different. Over the past few months, I’ve noticed so many similarities between Canada and Scotland, and though I love my home and native land, the Scots do New Year’s way better.

 

Hogmanay is a four day festival, venues sprung up all along Princes Street, the gardens below and even to the Royal Mile – the biggest crowds came out on December 31, but Princes Street was busy each of the four days.

 

On December 30, a torch procession from the Royal Mile to Calton Hill got things started. Once the flame arrived on Calton Hill, a big cauldron was lit (just like the Olympics) and music and fireworks could be heard from miles away. This whole bit was a total surprise to me – I watched the fireworks from the window.

 

Amusement Park rides have been set up around Princes Street – they’ve been there since November but were taken down a week ago. I always thought the PNE rides were too expensive, but the ones on Princes Street are worse and cost more. The German Market was taken down just after Christmas to make way for a Hogmanay stage. This is where Aarti and I went for the ceilidh.

If you look closely, you can see the old ferris wheel in the background.

We slipped the willow and did a few other dances, but the crowds were pretty intense. It was hard for me to deal with all of the crowds. Getting through the entrance was challenging enough.

 

They wouldn’t let us go in and out either. This combined with the crowds kept the exploring down to a minimum.

 

An unfortunate side effect of big events is they tend to be over organized (to prevent the worst case scenarios) or badly organized. This had a bit of both.

 

This was not the case when it came time to blow stuff up – the fireworks over the castle were remarkable. Afterwards, a big screen over the national gallery helped us with the words to Auld Lang Syne.

 

It started clearing out after that. Most of the bars were already filled up so we went home fairly early. The long lines for booze kept us fairly dry, but other people brought some in (plastic bottles were the only ones allowed) so the people watching on that walk back was exceptional – we saw the barely awake, we saw a couple of fights, we heard some completely unintelligible conversations, and there is almost nothing better than watching a skinny drunk girl in a fancy party dress trying to stay up on her high, high heels.

 

KT Tunstall, perhaps Scotland’s most exported singer, played a big show on January 1. She made it big with that song Black Horse and a Cherry Tree. I didn’t go but I’ve heard some of her other songs too and bet it was a good show.

 

I heard the closing event was a rugby match between Glasgow and Edinburgh on January 2nd. The final tally for December 31 was apparently 80,000 people. Many of them from outside Edinburgh.

 

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Edinburgh zombie walk

Most people who know me have mocked my darker tendencies when it comes to film, TV and books. It also made me the fortunate expert within our group when it comes to the best parts of Halloween. I joined the hundreds of thousands worldwide to walk, talk and dress like a zombie in one of the funnest events I’ve done this year.

Dimitri and Helene were in town for the weekend and I did my absolute best to make sure they had a spooky good time on their Halloween weekend. They told me that most people in Belgium don’t really celebrate Halloween, so a lot of the traditions that I’ve enjoyed for years are totally new to them. It made the zombie walk even more fun.

When we arrived at Banshee’s Labyrinth, I think they were a little intimidated by all the creepy zombies. With good reason. Because we ended up eating them.

Mmm…good

Dimitri and Helene will be missed.

 

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Guy Fawkes Day – A soggy, smoky good time

Remember, remember, the 5th of November. I first heard about Guy Fawkes when I watched V for Vendetta for the first time. After watching that movie like 30 times now, I think the name stuck in my brain.

It is a little strange that they would celebrate in Scotland as I imagine that there are more than a few people who wouldn’t have minded that much if Fawkes had succeeded in blowing up the English Parliament.

I guess the attraction of having a bonfire or shooting off a few fireworks in your backyard explains that little disconnect. Scots love their fireworks.

Though far from being the only show in town, the main event was held in Meadowbank stadium on Friday night. I was definitely tempted to stay in and skip it as part of me thought everyone else would to on account of the rain. After 20 minutes walk, I felt soaked right through to the bone. I watched with Aarti from Salisbury Craigs by the ruins of the old abbey looking down over the duck pond – a fantastic spot to view the show as it looks right down on the stadium. Before the stadium show, there were hundreds of other fireworks being fired throughout the city. My eyes were darting all over the place: barely catching some of them out of the corner of my eye. A couple of them going off right behind our heads as a few people hauled some fireworks up the craigs. As the show got going, I almost forgot how soaked i felt.

It started with the same classical music that you’d expect. I could barely hear it coming from the stadium. As the show got going, you couldn’t hear the music at all. All you could hear was the popping, howling, screeching and explosions of the fireworks. As you might expect, this was not exactly a welcome noise to all the birds around. They were darting every which way and with the very low light all you could catch was a glimpse.

Not long after the show got going, you could see the cloud of smoke starting to build up and spread out.

There were times when you could not see the fireworks going off, let alone see them on their way up. All that was visible was the big black-grey cloud. You could still hear them going off but that was about it.

The cloud eventually made it over to the Craigs so we could all breath it in deep. There were probably about thirty of us watching from that particular spot, more on other parts of the old volcano.

In some ways I actually preferred this show over the fireworks that closed the Edinburgh Festival. The festival fireworks were beautifully coordinated and put to music. The Guy Fawkes fireworks had a more raw random feeling. It didn’t feel as planned and controlled.

A revolutionary like Fawkes probably would have appreciated it.

 

 

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L’illusioniste

Last week, I made the excellent decision to see a movie at the Cameo. It truly is an excellent venue – it’s the first movie theatre I have been to that not only has its own bar, but permits you to take your drink into the movie.  A perk that suits me fine. Besides this, the main reason that people in Edinburgh know the Cameo is for the art house films they specialize in.

L’illusioniste was made by Sylvain Chomet, the same director who did belleville rendez-vous (aka les triplettes of belleville) and was set mostly in the Edinburgh of the 1950’s with briefer moments in Paris, London, and the Scottish islands.

Its about an ageing, struggling magician who is slowly being pushed aside in favour of more popular rock and roll acts. His search for work forces him to leave Paris for London, then the Scottish isles, and finally to Edinburgh. While performing at a small village on the Scottish isles, he meets a kind but poor young girl who is enchanted by his illusions. She follows him to Edinburgh where he tries to keep the illusion alive for her by secretly taking menial jobs to subsidize his failing career prospects and to provide her with gifts. Her kindness transforms him over the course of the story and she has almost a cinderella reaction to a few pair of shoes, coats, and dresses.  

The animation was amazing. The images they showed of Edinburgh and Scotland in the 1950’s were as good as anything I’ve seen in animation. Its always fun to see places you recognize appear on screen. There was even a scene where the magician accidentally wandered into the Cameo Theatre – when you see something that hits that close, you almost want to turn around to see if he is really there. There was also a scene where he had taken a job performing in a shop window at Jenners, and I’d been there only a couple days before (I actually pass it everyday on my way to work).

I didn’t really have any plans to see a movie that night, but was very happy that I did and also happy that it was a movie with such a local connection. Edinburgh is not really known for being a hot spot of film making, so L’illusioniste is a rare story.

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Starting a new job Monday

Its just part time to start, but the guy running the company seems decent so I believe him when he says the company is going to get much busier and that there will probably be more hours for me when it does.

Things are looking up.

Haunted Edinburgh…I finally got around to a ghost tour

Considering my morbid tendencies, its surprising that this wasn’t one of the first things I did in Edinburgh, but a few nights ago I was walking through Grassmarket and saw a sign for a free ghost tour outside the Last Drop pub. Haymarket used to be home to the city’s gallows.

William Burke/the actor playing William Burke was our tour guide. It would be hard for the real William Burke to lead the tour since he was hanged, disected and buried in 1829.  A black comedy is coming out later this year based on the story, with Simon Pegg playing Burke.

I was a little disappointed that the tour didn’t go down to the vaults, apparently haunted by a nasty poltergeist, but thoroughly everything else. The guide told some of the more gruesome stories about Edinburgh past. I’d even heard a few of them as there is a blog about Edinburgh’s Dark Side that I really enjoy.

I even met a Canadian on the tour (from Cape Breton) who was proudly sporting his Canadian flag on his backpack.

The guide told a story that I had to check out, and it was about Sawney Bean and his incestuous family of cannibals who were robbing, murdering and eating travellers that they came across over a number of years. According to that blog I mentioned the story is probably not true; it was most likely made up by the english newspapers trying to depict Scots as more barbaric than they actually were. I was happy to hear that one of the more gruesome stories was likely not true, but the guide spun a few more tales that were almost as disgusting and also true. Edinburgh has had a very violent history.

Overall, I really liked the tour and would definitely do another.

With Halloween coming in about a month, I have to plan something creepy for myself and for Dimitri’s visit.

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Doors Open Day

After just over two months in Edinburgh, I guess I’m starting to get a little homesick. Not enough to come back, but I’m spending more minutes everyday thinking about family, friends, hockey, the CBC and all things Canada.

The feeling of homesickness could also have something to do with the very cold weather in Edinburgh right now. Its much easier to keep yourself distracted when you’re constantly on the go.

I’m taking a couple odd jobs to get by, but am still looking for decent work. Its a very tough job market here. A few places are hiring extra staff on for Christmas, which should lead to something at least for a few months.

On Sunday, I went out and took advantage of doors open day in Edinburgh. For those in Canada, doors open day is what it sounds like. Historical and modern buildings that aren’t normally open to the public are open for the day. I went to Calton Hill (one of my favourite spots), Merchant Hall, the University Library, and University School of Informatics. The Observatory House at Calton Hill is actually being converted into a Holiday Rental, which I thought was a very intriguing idea. I can only imagine what a stay there would be like once the building is renovated. The other buildings I saw were quite grand; as you’d expect the library and merchant hall were very Victorian with high ceilings, greek columns, grandfather clocks and portraits everywhere. The school of informatics building on the other hand was ultra modern with a very open design and is apparently very energy efficient; they also had a lot of cool toys.

Some places were open on Saturday and not Sunday, so I missed them. I’m not too broken up about that because they have this every year which will give me another chance.

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Rugby last Saturday

Meeting people in a new city is always a bit of a challenge. This is why I’m trying a new strategy. I will continue going to meetup.com events around Edinburgh, but I’ll also be getting back into team sports.

I was playing hockey in Vancouver, but it was a more casual kind of game compared to the competitive hockey I played as a teenager. Unfortunately hockey is not really as viable an option in Edinburgh. There are two main problems: very few ice rinks for one and the fact that most people here think hockey is played on grass with thick, short wooden sticks; not much of a following. Bringing hockey equipment with me didn’t make much sense considering points one and two, but that would probably be point number three. As much as I’ll miss hockey (until the semi-pro team in Murrayfield starts up again), it is a good time to move on and experience something new.

Saturday was my first real experience at Rugby. I asked around and found a guy who works with a team in Leith and they let me come out to one of their training sessions. I had only a vague understanding of the rules at first and spent most of the day horribly out of position, but by the end I was really starting to get the hang of it.

As you can imagine, it was an incredible cardio workout. By the end of the practice, I was gasping pretty heavily. I hadn’t had very much to eat that morning, which was definitely a mistake because I felt pretty spent by the end… almost sick.

I was feeling a little worse for wear the next day too. Plenty of muscle aches and banged up more than a little. It was great.

I was actually planning on playing baseball the next day, but decided to put it off to recover. I’ll try doing that next weekend instead. I didn’t know how much I missed playing sports.

I took a few hits but there wasn’t too much contact. I think they were taking it a little easy on me on some things, but on others it was a trial by fire. With a little more practice, I think I could be playing competitive games by the end of the year. Positioning and teamwork are very important in the sport; Saturday was a great introduction because even though I spent most of the day out of position, I was getting more of a handle on the lines as the day went on. Defensively you have to keep a straight line with your teammates and offensively you have to keep a staggered line behind the ball (because you can only pass backwards). Its like hockey in that being able to move without the ball and join the play with speed is the key to scoring. I’ll probably play the front end because I’m stronger than I am fast, so Ill have to work on keeping low and keeping my feet moving after contact to push the opposition’s line back. Also getting the ball to settle behind me after I place it. I’m starting to realize how much contact there is in Rugby. You not only have to take the hit for the team as a last resort to make key play (like good hockey players), but sometimes running into the hit is the recommended course.

I’m planning on heading back on Thursday for another session.

I need to get myself a mouth guard and boots (cleats) pretty soon if I plan to keep this up. And keeping it up is what I want to do. I’ve only been out once but I think I’m close to getting hooked.

The coach said they had a guy on the team last year who at the start of the season hadn’t played a single game but at the end he was playing in matches and even scored a couple trys. That proves it can be done. He also said they get a few exhibition games and I might get a chance to play in some of those eventually. Speaking of exhibition, they even did a tour a couple years ago playing teams on Vancouver Island. Not really a surprise, but I guess its odd that I never learned how to play while I was in Canada.

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Edinburgh Fringe Festival coming up

The Fringe Festival in Edinburgh definitely does not compare to anything I’ve seen in Vancouver and Vancouver has a great fringe festival (for theatre). The thing that overwhelms me is the Edinburgh festival includes everything – Vancouver has plenty of festivals, but they all tend to focus on one kind of show like the fringe festival, and quite often in a particular genre (eg. the Folk Music Festival).

I’ve been scrolling through the Edinburgh festival guide at the different musical acts, theatre and dance performances, comedy shows and exhibitions. It’s all very overwhelming.

There are hundreds of diffent shows in each category and they come in every imaginable genre. More than 2000 shows total.

I don’t know very many of these acts or these venues, but I know I want to see some shows over the next couple weeks. I just have no way to make up my mind about which ones.

Next week will probably be me walking around listening for music or looking at posters and seeing what’s on that day. I’ll probably also take advantage of some of the free shows around the city, especially in the park below the castle where they set up a big stage.

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