Author Archives: ngwright

Dundee and the great Timmies Trek

To love Tim Horton’s is probably the most Canadian of stereotypes. Tim Horton’s even did a whole ad campaign about Canadians travelling abroad spotting each other by their Timmies mug. Another ad shows a University of Glasgow student bringing a little Canada to Scotland.

Stereotype or not, I’m counting down the hours until I get some Tim Hortons at the SPAR in Dundee on Saturday. I haven’t decided if I’m going to be getting the Maple Dip or an Apple Fritter – I suppose it will depend on what they have, and how much I can carry back to Edinburgh.

I was expecting more Canadians to come out, but weekends being as precious as they are I guess I understand.

Pie

There are many truly amazing things about Scotland. Of course, there is the rich and often bloody history, the beautiful natural landscapes, and obviously the whiskey. One that often escapes mention is that you can get all you meat dishes in pastry form.

  • Sausage rolls
  • Cornish pasties
  • Steak pies
  • Scotch pies
  • Chicken/Steak bake

Some would say that this diet is not in your long term interest and those people would probably be right. However, it is essential to eat like a local as much as possible. In Scotland, that means takeaway shops. Pies and pasties have fuelled the Scottish working man for generations…who am I complain.

As you’d expect, there are some takeaway places that are just disgusting. Though the good ones call you back with their close proximity to home (or the pub) and the alluring and dominating scent of grease.  Gregg’s are a chain of bakeries, by far the biggest in the Edinburgh area. If you haven’t eaten in a while or don’t expect to, their steak and chicken bakes are a nice snack to get you through the next hour or two. The best thing about them is that they are warm and you can easily eat them while walking.  They’re not gross, but are definitely fast food. The Piemaker is on north bridge, and tastes much better than Gregg’s. It is just around the corner from the Jazz Bar, and is open late. Very convenient for a late night sausage roll.  Rose Street is another good one if I’m in the new town. For most other things, I tend to stop at the Tailend or Eatalia’s on Leith Walk. I’m sure there are better places to eat, but you can’t beat the convenience. A scotch pie is better enjoyed at home, where there are metal forks and warm chairs to sit in. I really can’t be bothered to walk 30 minutes to 1 hour for takeaway – it’s usually a cold walk and it really defeats the purpose. But in summary, meat and pastry is mmm….mmm…good

 

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New Job starting this week

Looking for work is no fun, but luckily for me, I don’t have to do it anymore. I’m about to start work at Datamart doing B2B sales. Its part time and a small starting wage but there is commission on top of that. They’re giving me a three month trial to see if I’m well suited to the role which means I’ll have that long to build some contacts and generate some new business. They really are an old school company in how they do their sales, so it’ll be good to incorporate that into my plans. I’ll combine that with opportunities for email marketing and SEO and using social media which will be good for my skill base. Plus, they provide mostly office IT equipment, which I know a little about.

The manager seemed really excited about getting some new people in and trying to capitalize on that energy. Its a refreshing attitude, so I want to do well for them. Plus, I get to stay in Edinburgh. I start Wednesday.

 

Update – 17 Feb 2011 – INCLUDING NEW PHOTOS

It has recently been hard to find time to do the writing that I want to do on this blog. The last couple weeks have been very hard on me. I’ve covered an immense amount of territory but have had too much happening besides that. I visited East Lothian, Glasgow again, and spent last weekend in York. I have had several job interviews, each requiring some preparations and travel.

My thoughts have been preoccupied with home. But right now, I feel useless. However, its much tougher on my aunt and my mom so I really have no cause to complain. On the other hand, I did cover a lot of ground recently so I thought an update was in order.

North Berwick

This is a small coastal village to the south east of Edinburgh. Its home to Bass Rock, an amazing beach, the sea bird education centre and a picturesque high street. Plus, its very easy to get to by rail. The geography of the village is bizarre. Along the shore, west of the harbour, there is a golf course and park – the golf shop itself is built into a hill, and is under the surrounding grounds on three sides. The harbour and sea bird centre are on a peninsula, and at the end of a street of very colourful cottages. Above the village is an incredibly steep hill/mountain that rises out of no where. Bass Rock is out in the ocean, to the east. No people live on Bass Rock, just thousands of birds and an old lighthouse. However, a few centuries ago those steep cliffs and same birds provided a naturally formed Scottish fortress. Small groups of men could subsist on fish and those same birds for months at a time. The only way up Bass Rock was if someone lowered you a rope. Also, a wilderness trail along the glen was hiding some very interesting old ruins – several old mills and storage buildings. Along a creek, the mills took advantage of the running water to turn their windmills. From this trail, I continued along to my next destination.

Tantallon Castle

Seeing an old fortress like this can really work the imagination. During the civil war, forces loyal to the king were using Tantallon Castle as a base to attack Cromwell’s forces. Apparently, these attacks were very effective because an army of 3000 was dispatched to capture the stronghold and dislodge the 200 men who were stationed there. The army loyal to Cromwell completed their mission and left the castle in a sorry state, but this could not have been an easy task. This is one of the most secure looking castles that I have seen so far. It backs onto a cliff. There is an outer wall and several ditches to funnel potential invaders into a long exposed corridor before they reach the castle’s only entrance. Four towers would have provided defense. The central tower/gate had thick walls reinforced with a softer stone on the outside to absorb artillery attacks. It had been seiged other times, once by the King of Scotland, who failed to capture the fortress by force from the powerful Earl who owned it. Later that Earl offered the fortress to the King after the two of them patched up their differences. The views from this castle were pretty amazing. The ocean, Bass rock, the surrounding farmland, etc. all look better from the top of a 600 year old castle.

Dirleton

Unfortunately, I arrived just too late for Dirleton Castle and Gardens. I spend forty minutes walking there from North Berwick and I miss out by five minutes. It may be worth going back in the spring so I can go in and see the gardens. Like most villages, Dirleton had a small inn and a parish church but most of the surrounding area was woods and farmland. There is a law in the UK that lets you wander, even on private land. This is good because it can take a very long time if you follow the road only – being able to walk as the crow flies is a huge time saver when the roads all switch back through small farms.

Glasgow

I was there for a job interview, but had plenty of time before and after. I walked around the Mary Hill area and went down to what I think is called the Clyde and Forth canal. After the interview, I came back into the centre of town and walked around. I saw the old cinema, St Aloysius school before going to the river walkway and getting some photos of the bridges over the Clyde.

York

It was great to see Dimitri and Helene again. Probably my favourite part of York was the National Railway Museum – I went on both Friday and Sunday. There was a huge collection of trains and coaches. A Eurostar, japanese bullet train, the Hogwarts Express, the Flying Scotsman, the Evening Star, the royal coaches as well as some early steam trains including a replica of the Stephenson Rocket. After all those hours playing Railroad Tycoon II, I was finally able to put all of that information to use.

The hostel was very unique and I liked staying there for the most part – however, the bathrooms were tiny and the showers were two feet from the toilet. On the plus side, there was a very good free breakfast and a TV and games room in the basement

Dimitri and I did a ghost tour – the tour guide mentioned a few prominent ghosts including an incident involving Guy Fawkes’ former home. Its tradition to burn Guy Fawkes in effigy on November 5th, but apparently he was not too happy when after many years of avoidance, his old school planned to take up the tradition.

York has been an important city back to Roman times, so there was no shortage of old buildings to check out. Yorkminster is massive (but also quite expensive so I didn’t do the full tour). Walking through the old streets (or gates) was very different from any city I’ve seen in Scotland. The architecture is very different and its great to look up at the buildings and see the dates, many of them over 500 years old. Because they didn’t really build foundations, many of the older ones also have a good lean to them. There are also more than a few boughed roofs.

On Saturday morning, Dimitri and I did a tour and walked the city wall. Along with Helene we covered a lot of ground and probably retraced our steps through the city centre several times over. I found out that Yorkshire was the home to Beatrix Potter so Peter Rabbit merchandise was quite common. We also had some Yorkshire Pudding, which was not as good as mom’s, but was still a necessary culinary choice while in York. The river recently breached its banks so there was a fair amount of mud when we did the river walk out to Millennium Bridge. According to the ghost tour guy, one of these floods brought a body downriver before it was eventually caught up at the Kings Arms Pub; so close but not able to get inside for a last pint. What is the expression: “water, water, everywhere, but not a drop to drink.”

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Hogmanay

I’ve always taken for granted that everyone celebrates New Year’s. Of course some cultures have their own calendars and New Year’s Day may be different. Over the past few months, I’ve noticed so many similarities between Canada and Scotland, and though I love my home and native land, the Scots do New Year’s way better.

 

Hogmanay is a four day festival, venues sprung up all along Princes Street, the gardens below and even to the Royal Mile – the biggest crowds came out on December 31, but Princes Street was busy each of the four days.

 

On December 30, a torch procession from the Royal Mile to Calton Hill got things started. Once the flame arrived on Calton Hill, a big cauldron was lit (just like the Olympics) and music and fireworks could be heard from miles away. This whole bit was a total surprise to me – I watched the fireworks from the window.

 

Amusement Park rides have been set up around Princes Street – they’ve been there since November but were taken down a week ago. I always thought the PNE rides were too expensive, but the ones on Princes Street are worse and cost more. The German Market was taken down just after Christmas to make way for a Hogmanay stage. This is where Aarti and I went for the ceilidh.

If you look closely, you can see the old ferris wheel in the background.

We slipped the willow and did a few other dances, but the crowds were pretty intense. It was hard for me to deal with all of the crowds. Getting through the entrance was challenging enough.

 

They wouldn’t let us go in and out either. This combined with the crowds kept the exploring down to a minimum.

 

An unfortunate side effect of big events is they tend to be over organized (to prevent the worst case scenarios) or badly organized. This had a bit of both.

 

This was not the case when it came time to blow stuff up – the fireworks over the castle were remarkable. Afterwards, a big screen over the national gallery helped us with the words to Auld Lang Syne.

 

It started clearing out after that. Most of the bars were already filled up so we went home fairly early. The long lines for booze kept us fairly dry, but other people brought some in (plastic bottles were the only ones allowed) so the people watching on that walk back was exceptional – we saw the barely awake, we saw a couple of fights, we heard some completely unintelligible conversations, and there is almost nothing better than watching a skinny drunk girl in a fancy party dress trying to stay up on her high, high heels.

 

KT Tunstall, perhaps Scotland’s most exported singer, played a big show on January 1. She made it big with that song Black Horse and a Cherry Tree. I didn’t go but I’ve heard some of her other songs too and bet it was a good show.

 

I heard the closing event was a rugby match between Glasgow and Edinburgh on January 2nd. The final tally for December 31 was apparently 80,000 people. Many of them from outside Edinburgh.

 

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Burns country

Two weeks ago, I spent the weekend in Ayr, the birthplace of the bard himself, Robert Burns.

I posted some photos on Flickr and facebook.

Brrrrrrrrrrrrrr

So much snow has fallen over the past week that I feel like I could be in New Brunswick. Until this morning, it hadn’t really stopped snowing for more than a couple hours at a time. And even if the snow lightens up, the meteorologists are saying that the weather will be cold until after Christmas.

Royal Mail wasn’t doing pickup all week. The buses were slow but they were running.  Loads of people who come into Edinburgh from Fife, the Borders, or further have not been able to get around very well either. The country isn’t really grinding to a halt, but it has definitely slowed down a bunch.

Family History

I finally got around to doing a bit more follow up on the Rowan family, so I spent this very cold Scottish day inside doing a little research.

Edinburgh zombie walk

Most people who know me have mocked my darker tendencies when it comes to film, TV and books. It also made me the fortunate expert within our group when it comes to the best parts of Halloween. I joined the hundreds of thousands worldwide to walk, talk and dress like a zombie in one of the funnest events I’ve done this year.

Dimitri and Helene were in town for the weekend and I did my absolute best to make sure they had a spooky good time on their Halloween weekend. They told me that most people in Belgium don’t really celebrate Halloween, so a lot of the traditions that I’ve enjoyed for years are totally new to them. It made the zombie walk even more fun.

When we arrived at Banshee’s Labyrinth, I think they were a little intimidated by all the creepy zombies. With good reason. Because we ended up eating them.

Mmm…good

Dimitri and Helene will be missed.

 

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Guy Fawkes Day – A soggy, smoky good time

Remember, remember, the 5th of November. I first heard about Guy Fawkes when I watched V for Vendetta for the first time. After watching that movie like 30 times now, I think the name stuck in my brain.

It is a little strange that they would celebrate in Scotland as I imagine that there are more than a few people who wouldn’t have minded that much if Fawkes had succeeded in blowing up the English Parliament.

I guess the attraction of having a bonfire or shooting off a few fireworks in your backyard explains that little disconnect. Scots love their fireworks.

Though far from being the only show in town, the main event was held in Meadowbank stadium on Friday night. I was definitely tempted to stay in and skip it as part of me thought everyone else would to on account of the rain. After 20 minutes walk, I felt soaked right through to the bone. I watched with Aarti from Salisbury Craigs by the ruins of the old abbey looking down over the duck pond – a fantastic spot to view the show as it looks right down on the stadium. Before the stadium show, there were hundreds of other fireworks being fired throughout the city. My eyes were darting all over the place: barely catching some of them out of the corner of my eye. A couple of them going off right behind our heads as a few people hauled some fireworks up the craigs. As the show got going, I almost forgot how soaked i felt.

It started with the same classical music that you’d expect. I could barely hear it coming from the stadium. As the show got going, you couldn’t hear the music at all. All you could hear was the popping, howling, screeching and explosions of the fireworks. As you might expect, this was not exactly a welcome noise to all the birds around. They were darting every which way and with the very low light all you could catch was a glimpse.

Not long after the show got going, you could see the cloud of smoke starting to build up and spread out.

There were times when you could not see the fireworks going off, let alone see them on their way up. All that was visible was the big black-grey cloud. You could still hear them going off but that was about it.

The cloud eventually made it over to the Craigs so we could all breath it in deep. There were probably about thirty of us watching from that particular spot, more on other parts of the old volcano.

In some ways I actually preferred this show over the fireworks that closed the Edinburgh Festival. The festival fireworks were beautifully coordinated and put to music. The Guy Fawkes fireworks had a more raw random feeling. It didn’t feel as planned and controlled.

A revolutionary like Fawkes probably would have appreciated it.

 

 

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