Monthly Archives: August 2010

London Calling

August 24, 2010

  • King’s Cross / St. Pancras Station
  • Russel Square
  • West End (Soho and theatre district)
  • Picadilly Square
  • Tartines

August 25, 2010

  • British Museum (crystal skull, ancient Egypt, etc.)
  • London Underground
  • Tower of London
  • Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre
  • Tate Museum of modern art
  • Waterloo
  • Liverpool Street

London is another one of those cities that is easy to get lost in. A fact that I proved several times over.

On my first day, walking from King’s Cross/St. Pancras, I managed to walk about a kilometre in the wrong direction. I didn’t book my hostel beforehand and I wandered over to the tourist information centre to find out where I should go. I initially had one in mind that was around Picadilly, which is where the tourist office is, but I eventually settled on one near Russel Square (in Camden, the part of London not the city). Between my arrival in London and my checking in at the hostel, about three hours had passed and most of it was spent walking, particularly in the West End. All of this with a backpack and laptop bag.

It was either poor planning or maybe a part of me just wanted to suffer more.

I don’t know if the death march had anything to do with it, but I felt thoroughly out of place when I met up with Dimitri at his hotel. I’m sitting there in the lobby with my jeans, t-shirt and a warm coat and all the people who are walking in are wearing business suits – even the hotel staff are dressed formally. It felt more than a little intimidating.

I’m more used to staying in hostels where the definition of dressing up is to wear a collared shirt.

Dimitri and I wandered around the west end a little and found a place to eat. It was Belgium food and I had some tartines that I really enjoyed. You don’t normally have that many light and healthy meals on holiday, and it was a nice change.

I’m a little jealous of Dimitri because he has an exciting trip planned to Croatia, hiking and backpacking from town to town. He’s been working pretty hard lately and in his place I would probably prefer a more relaxed holiday, but he said he has couple easy days planned in there and I know he and Helene will have a great time meeting local people along the way.

Wednesday started off really good actually. I wandered over to the British Museum getting there just after 10am, and I spent the next 3 hours wandering from exhibit to exhibit. I’ve always loved old libraries and the great court is really an impressive sight for someone like me. The whole room is dedicated to the Enlightenment period, and is divided into different sections based on the key aspects of the enlightenment. The room has a high ceiling with a balcony on the second level, and old leatherbound books from the 1700’s and 1800’s fill bookshelves, protected by glass, that take up the entire length of the very long room. On the second level, some of the glass cases were open, presumably for researchers. On the ground level, shelves alternate between books and the artifacts acquired by some of the early collectors and patrons of the museum. I spent probably an hour just in that one room. Other exhibits on ancient Greece, Rome and Egypt were about what I’d expected, but I was a little in awe at the number of statues and artifacts that were on display. Especially since I know that what is on display is probably only a fraction of what they have in their collection.

As museums go, its probably the most impressive one I’ve been in. I have no doubt that I could go everyday for months and still not see everything.

The next spot on my agenda was the Tower of London. I managed to get there on the underground but by the time I arrived it had started to rain pretty heavily and it was already getting late in the afternoon. I opted to not go in as the 17 pounds and 2+ hours it would have taken would have kept me from seeing much else.

I decided to wander instead. Probably not ideal because I was getting soaked as I made my way over to the south side of the Thames. I found a few old neighbourhoods and outdoor markets on my way to the Globe Theatre. I stopped there for a hot chocolate and to dry off. My timing was not spot on because there weren’t any shows or tours that I could see.

I continued my wandering and decided to stop in at the Tate. In hindsight, I don’t really know why. Most modern art is really beyond my understanding and very little of it is beautiful in the traditional sense. I understand that art doesn’t really have to be nice to look at, and bringing out feelings or making you think are more likely goals, but when I looked at a few of the sculptures, photos and video my only thought was “why?” or “what the f**k?”

That’s what you get for being spontaneous.

I eventually made it over to Waterloo station (which is massive) before getting back on the underground to meet up with Dimitri near his job around Liverpool Street.

I was commenting to him that the people here must be very used to rain because there are so many covered markets and walkways. Unfortunately for us it was still raining (probably harder) when we finished dinner and neither of us felt too much like walking around exploring London in that weather.

Its good that I plan to return to London a few more times, because I really didn’t get to see as much as I wanted to.

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Arriving in London in 1.5 hours

 Its good to be a man of the world.

 Right now, I’m on a train on my way to London. I love trains and I’ve had some pretty fantastic scenery passing by out the window, it feels pretty good to be travelling in such style (not like being on a plane at all) and I don’t think this will be my only trip to the capital.

 Thats why I’m only going for a couple days. I know there is too much to see to get it all done before Thursday, so I’m not even going to try. I’ll do my tourist thing during the day; I’ll try to visit the British Museum, the Tower of London and a few other places. During the evening I can catch up with Dimitri and we can see a bit more.

London never had the same draw for me that Edinburgh has. London has been the cultural and financial capital of the UK for most of the millenium; there has been a city there since the time of ancient Rome. London was home to many literary greats and scientific pioneers. The city is probably depicted more in books and movies than any other in Europe, probably even more than Paris. In terms of History it should be more interesting than Edinburgh because of all that has happened here. I guess its probably because London has reinvented itself many times over its history. I know I’m not going to the city Shakespeare or Charles Dickens wrote about, but I’m not really sure what to expect.

Its probably not like a Guy Ritchie movie either. I was watching Rock’n Rolla on TV last week with my roommate, and I thought it was a little bit of a sacrilege that he did not know about the greatness of Lock Stock and Two Smoking Barrels and Snatch as he has been here much longer than me. He went to school here but apparently he didn’t attend any of the Guy Ritchie classes on creative violence and swearing. Snatch was one of the first english movies I saw that had english subtitles.

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Rugby last Saturday

Meeting people in a new city is always a bit of a challenge. This is why I’m trying a new strategy. I will continue going to meetup.com events around Edinburgh, but I’ll also be getting back into team sports.

I was playing hockey in Vancouver, but it was a more casual kind of game compared to the competitive hockey I played as a teenager. Unfortunately hockey is not really as viable an option in Edinburgh. There are two main problems: very few ice rinks for one and the fact that most people here think hockey is played on grass with thick, short wooden sticks; not much of a following. Bringing hockey equipment with me didn’t make much sense considering points one and two, but that would probably be point number three. As much as I’ll miss hockey (until the semi-pro team in Murrayfield starts up again), it is a good time to move on and experience something new.

Saturday was my first real experience at Rugby. I asked around and found a guy who works with a team in Leith and they let me come out to one of their training sessions. I had only a vague understanding of the rules at first and spent most of the day horribly out of position, but by the end I was really starting to get the hang of it.

As you can imagine, it was an incredible cardio workout. By the end of the practice, I was gasping pretty heavily. I hadn’t had very much to eat that morning, which was definitely a mistake because I felt pretty spent by the end… almost sick.

I was feeling a little worse for wear the next day too. Plenty of muscle aches and banged up more than a little. It was great.

I was actually planning on playing baseball the next day, but decided to put it off to recover. I’ll try doing that next weekend instead. I didn’t know how much I missed playing sports.

I took a few hits but there wasn’t too much contact. I think they were taking it a little easy on me on some things, but on others it was a trial by fire. With a little more practice, I think I could be playing competitive games by the end of the year. Positioning and teamwork are very important in the sport; Saturday was a great introduction because even though I spent most of the day out of position, I was getting more of a handle on the lines as the day went on. Defensively you have to keep a straight line with your teammates and offensively you have to keep a staggered line behind the ball (because you can only pass backwards). Its like hockey in that being able to move without the ball and join the play with speed is the key to scoring. I’ll probably play the front end because I’m stronger than I am fast, so Ill have to work on keeping low and keeping my feet moving after contact to push the opposition’s line back. Also getting the ball to settle behind me after I place it. I’m starting to realize how much contact there is in Rugby. You not only have to take the hit for the team as a last resort to make key play (like good hockey players), but sometimes running into the hit is the recommended course.

I’m planning on heading back on Thursday for another session.

I need to get myself a mouth guard and boots (cleats) pretty soon if I plan to keep this up. And keeping it up is what I want to do. I’ve only been out once but I think I’m close to getting hooked.

The coach said they had a guy on the team last year who at the start of the season hadn’t played a single game but at the end he was playing in matches and even scored a couple trys. That proves it can be done. He also said they get a few exhibition games and I might get a chance to play in some of those eventually. Speaking of exhibition, they even did a tour a couple years ago playing teams on Vancouver Island. Not really a surprise, but I guess its odd that I never learned how to play while I was in Canada.

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Amsterdam – canals and lots of walking

Friday, August 13

  • Arrived in Amsterdam just before 9 pm
  • Train to Centraal Station
  • Walked around, got lost somewhere in Noordermarkt
  • Dam Square and the National Monument
  • Checked into my hostel in Red Light District

With my hostel being right there, I did manage to explore the famous red light district quite a lot, but none of the other nights really compared to the Friday – the atmosphere was electric until probablly 4 am. I didn’t get much sleep that night, but not for the reasons dirty minds would expect; my hostel room had big windows that were open to the street, and no one was in any hurry to close those because of how hot it was. There were also revelers coming into the 12 bed dorm until like 4 am;  early risers were getting up and about by around 6 am. You really couldn’t help but take in the excitement.


Saturday, August 14

  • Checked out some of the shops on Nieuwendijk
  • Had coffee and breakfast on Damrak
  • Took the Tram out to Artis Zoo to see the monkeys and chill out for a few hours
  • Canal Tour
  • A pint of Murphey’s Red and shephards pie in the pub below my hostel (one of a few Irish pubs in the Red Light District)
  • More wanderings, this time south to Rembrandt Square
  • The Torture Museum (you’d think it would be really interesting but it wasn’t)

I did a lot of walking on this trip.  The zoo was actually pretty fun; its an old victorian design so there are some parts that are quite pretty even if it doesn’t smell great. Plus, a lot of people in Amsterdam go there for family outings, and there was a  pretty good vibe throughout the place – nothing really seedy going on. Its the polar opposite of the Red Light District.

Sunday, August 15

  • Vondelpark – lots of bikers and walkers and a free piano concert as a bonus
  • Delicious Pannekoeken with peaches and powdered sugar
  • Bill arrived and we watched a little football before heading out in search of other adventures
  • More wandering around the Red Light District and the Chinatown

After a bite to eat we stopped at a little bar where we had a great bartender who gave us some very tasty shots, including a mini guiness and another flaming shot that i don’t remember the name of.  Also, I stopped briefly at one of the coffee houses; good brownies, but the night was not as wild and crazy as that scene in the movie EuroTrip. He wanted to be sharp when he met his new boss.

It was good to catch up with Bill and with any luck we’ll meet up again soon in Africa.

Monday, August 16

Bill had an early flight and I was on my own again on Monday. Before he left, he dropped off an important gift. It made me feel like I was back in Canada: I spent 45 minutes of my Monday morning reading the Globe and Mail at what felt like a kitchen table. This day though I was carrying my backpack through my wanderings because I checked out of my hostel at 10 am and didn’t want to pay for a locker at the train station – I had to stop and rest more.

  • Westerstraat (probably the longest outdoor market I’ve seen in my travels so far)
  • Anne Frank House (I was there but the line outside was over an hour long so I moved on)
  • Westerpark (I like green spaces, and this one is different than any other I’ve seen – would definitely recommend for anyone looking to relax outside the city centre) for an espresso and reading break
  • A few areas near Westerdok (practically no cars, only a couple narrow bridges for access)
  • Haarlemerstraat
  • There was this little outdoor cafe near Spuistraat that was serving organic food – I had a burger and fries (with mayonaise on my fries)
  • I found a liquor store selling absinthe and other liquors in really trippy containers – I guess vodka tastes better when it comes out of a bottle shaped like a naked woman, I probably should have got one as a souvenir to be certain
  • Amsterdam Oud-West
  • Museumplein – plenty of restoration happening,  but I wasn’t going to spend 17 euros for it especially since I was pretty tired by this point

I know its not just Amsterdam, but it would be really helpful if there were a few more public washrooms and public benches. Its annoying that you have you to pay 50 cents to use the washroom at KFC of all places. In this sense, I say screw the free market, supply and demand bull. As a tourist, sometimes I just want to sit somewhere and rest myself or use the facilities without having to buy anything. Its a minor annoyance I know, but there is a principle behind it. That’s why some of the best times are had outside the tourist  areas; not only are you mingling with actual residents, but there are actual public services – less gouging.

A couple of other cool things I found about the city: most buildings have a lean to them (everything is near sea level and built on wooden piles) and because of the narrow staircases, all buildings have a wench (to lift furniture through the windows when people move)

I’m sure there is plenty more to Amsterdam that I didn’t see – maybe next time I’ll see if I can get into a bit more trouble. Now though, I’m back in Scotland.

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Amsterdam

I’m flying out tonight for a three day stop in Amsterdam. It should be some good times.

Historic Scotland – Stirling

On Sunday, I took the train up to Stirling. The castle up there is pretty amazing, but getting there was a lot of work. The entire old town is on a steep hill. The roads up are winding and narrow and steep. I read that the old horse drawn carriages often got stuck on the narrow cobble stone streets.

After leaving the train station, I made my way over to the outer city walls. Just above the tourist information centre, just outside the city walls, there is a statue of Rob Roy McGregor – the Scottish folk hero. The guy didn’t look anything like Liam Neeson.

There were a few big tourist / student groups that I saw on my way up the hill. A big group was in the old kirk, which I found out was an important place in the Scottish Reformation. In the cemetery outside, there were headstones dating back to the 1500’s, all facing east. From there it was a short walk up to the castle; they’re both right at the top of the hill.

While I was there, I signed up for a membership in Historic Scotland. For about 40 pounds, I get unlimited admissions to sites all across Scotland including Edinburgh castle. I should get plenty of use out of that membership.

Stirling is also close to the sites of the two most important battles for Scottish independence. Stirling Bridge was William Wallace’s most decisive victory over the English. They don’t show a bridge in the movie Braveheart, but Wallace allowed half an English army to cross the bridge before isolating and devastating the English troops. Bannockburn was the most important victory of Robert the Bruce and was the decisive battle ensuring scottish independence. Bannockburn also required Robert the Bruce to adapt the terrain to his advantage.

I didn’t make it to the university, the Wallace Monument, or Bannockburn because they were all outside the city centre, which was about an hour by train from Edinburgh. The palace inside the castle was being renovated but there was still a lot to see around the grounds: the great hall, kitchens, the medieval weaving centre, the regimental museum, the gun batteries. A few of those living history actors were also around. Its a popular tourist site.

It was a long walk to the bridge after my steep climb, and the weather turned on me early in the afternoon, so I was burned out at about 3:30.

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